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Limited Edition MB&F Yellow Gold LM Perpetual Calendar Watch Revealed

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Maximilian Büsser and his friends are back at it, this time with 25 limited editions of the famous Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar watch in 18K yellow gold with a deep blue dial plate to match.
MB&F LM Perpetual limited edition yellow gold wrist shot
MB&F LM Perpetual limited edition yellow gold wrist shot

Since its original launch in 2015, the LM Perpetual has been handcrafted and released in various editions featuring cases made of platinum, titanium, red gold, white gold. This is the first time however that an 18K yellow gold version has been created and one can’t help but feel the yellow-golden tones enhance its futuristic steampunk characteristics.

Originally created as a collaboration between MB&F and Northern Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, the Legacy Machine Perpetual watch is a fascinating piece that completely reinvents the perpetual calendar watch model.

Generally speaking, the perpetual calendar model has been one of the greatest traditional complications, whose function it is to calculate and display the days and months of the year. There are some small issues however, in that, perpetual calendar watches don’t always know how to handle leap years and are prone to damage if attempting to adjust them while the date is in the process of changing.

Focusing on these pain points, Stephen McDonnell and the team set about creating a revolutionary new system for calculating the number of days in each month.

MB&F LM Perpetual limited edition 18k yellow gold blue face
The limited edition LM perpetual has a44mm case and contains 581 components. Credit: MB&F

As a general rule of thumb, traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms use a 31-day month as the default and more or less “delete” extra dates they don’t need for the months with fewer days. This is done by fast-forwarding through the “extra” dates during changeover e.g a  traditional perpetual calendar changing from February 28 to March 1 will quickly scroll through the 29th, 30th and 31st to arrive at the 1st.

In contrast, the LM Perpetual uses a “mechanical processor” instead of the conventional space-consuming grand levier (big lever) system architecture. This mechanical processor allows the LM Perpetual to utilise a default 28-day month and only adds extra days as required. This means that each month always has the exact number of days required and there is no fast-forwarding or skipping redundant days.

MB&F LM Perpetual limited edition 18 carat yellow gold case back
The MB&F yellow gold LM perpetual contains 41 jewels. Credit: MB&F

Additionally, while the leap year can only be set on traditional perpetual calendars by scrolling through up to 47 months, the LM Perpetual has a dedicated quickset pusher to adjust the year.

It only took three years and many sleepless nights later to figure out, but figure it out they did and thus the Legacy Machine Perpetual was created.

To date the LM Perpetual Editions have incuded:

  • Platinum 950 with blue face (limited to 25 pieces)
  • Grade 5 titanium with green face (limited to 50 pieces)
  • 18k red gold with grey face (limited to 25 pieces)
  • 18k white gold with purple face (limited to 25 pieces)
  • 18k white gold with dark grey face
  • 18k yellow gold with blue face (limited to 25 pieces)

Prices start from $167,000 per piece. For more information visit the website.

MB&F LM Perpetual limited edition yellow gold close up
MB&F LM Perpetual 18k yellow gold with a 72 hour power reserve. Credit MB&F

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Jacob & Co Reveals One-Off Billionaire ASHOKA Diamond Watch

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Jacob & Co’s Billionaire ASHOKA Watch features over 189 carats of ASHOKA cut diamonds and will be the only one ever made.
Jacob & Co Billionaire Ashoka Diamond Watch
The Jacob & Co Billionaire ASHOKA diamond watch. Credit: Jacob & Co

New York based jeweler and watchmaker Jacob & Co are renowned for show-stopping timepieces and none more so than the new Billionaire ASHOKA.

Created as an updated version of Jacob & Co’s first Billionaire watch first introduced in 2015 at Baselworld and created in collaboration with Flavio Briatore of Billionaire Lifestyle SARL, the Billionaire ASHOKA instead features unique proprietary cut ASHOKA diamonds from William Goldberg.

Named after one of India’s greatest third-century emporer’s, King Ashoka Maurya, an ASHOKA cut diamond is a rectangular shape with rounded corners and 62 precisely-cut facets that make the diamond appear 30% larger than an emerald cut diamond of the same weight.

Enclosing the 18-carat white gold case and skeletonized caliber entirely in the ASHOKA diamonds, the Billionaire ASHOKA watch has a total carat weight of 189 pieces. It is powered by the JCAM09 caliber tourbillon movement created by Jacon & Co’s Swiss-based watchmakers, giving it 72 hours of power reserve.

Due to the precise cut of the ASHOKA diamond, less than 1% off all rough diamonds are even eligible to be considered, making the Billionaire ASHOKA extremely unique. Jacob & Co have explicitly stated they will only be producing one limited edition of this watch.

While no prices have been released yet as a ballpark figure, Floyd Mayweather reportedly purchased the original Billionaire watch for $18 million in 2018.

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The New $520,000 Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton

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The new Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton features a triple-axis tourbillon movement for the first time in the brand’s popular Vanguard case.
Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Watch
The new Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Watch. Credit: Franck Muller

For fans of Franck Muller’s triple-axis tourbillon movement and the Vanguard watch shape – this is for you. For the first time, the Swiss watchmaker has revealed the Revolution 3 triple-axis tourbillon movement in its popular Vanguard case.

Founded in 1991 by master watchmaker Franck Muller and a watchmaking specialist and entrepreneur Vartan Simarkes, the House of Franck Muller is known for its highly technical complications and innovations, produced in-house at Genthod, Geneva.

One particular innovation is the “Triple Axis Tourbillon” first created in 2004 which was the world’s first tri-axial tourbillon, designed to correct the forces of gravity in all positions (contrary to a classic one which only compensates when the wristwatch is in a vertical position ie, Franck Muller Revolution 1, or the double-axis tourbillon in Revolution 2).

Previously Franck Muller has debuted the triple-axis tourbillon in the iconic Cintrée Curvex case, easily identifiable by its perfectly curved tonneau body and known as the Cintrée Curvex Revolution 3 model.

For the first time, the triple-axis tourbillon “Revolution 3” has now been released in Franck Muller’s more sporty looking Vanguard case, designed to cleverly integrate the strap inside the case to retain the smooth curves of the watch.

Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Watch Front View
Featuring a titanium case with Alcantara® strap. Credit: Franck Muller

Featuring an eye-catching skeleton movement, the Vanguard Revolution 3’s large sapphire dome case allows viewers to see the inner-workings and watch as the triple-axis tourbillon works effortlessly to correct the force of gravity in all positions.

Dominating the lower half of the movement, the triple-axis tourbillon slowly turns through the one-hour, eight-minute, and 60-second cycles of its respective three carriages.

Power flows from the gear train through all three carriages to activate the balance wheel five times each second. As the Revolution 3 has three carriages, the gear train has significant resistance to overcome. To provide an abundance of energy to drive this triple-axis tourbillon, the movement has a massive ten days of power reserve.

There are also two retrograde indications at 4 and 8 o’clock for the progression of the eight-minute carriage and the 60-second carriage.

The Vanguard case itself is made of grade-2 titanium and has been treated with black PVD coating. In contrast, the bright red strap features Alcantara® (a material popular with supercar interiors like those of Lamborghini), which effortlessly takes the shape of the wrist and complements the red detailing on the movement and the Vanguard case.

Price for the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Watch is CHF 480,000 excluding taxes (approx US$520,000) with first deliveries scheduled from September 2020.

Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Watch Trio

Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Technical Specifications

Watch Reference
  • V 50 REV 3 SQT NR BR (ER)
Case
  • Vanguard case
  • Grade-2 titanium with back PVD treatment
  • Hand Brushed
  • Red inserts on both sides of the case
  • Width: 46 mm x Length: 55.9 mm x Thickness: 13.7 mm
  • Sapphire crystal with two domes on the front and back
  • Water resistant up to 30 meters
Functions
  • Hours, Minutes, Triple Axis Tourbillon, Power reserve at 12 o’clock, Carriages progression indicators at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock
Instructions
  • Winding shaft with 2 positions: 1.Winding. 2.Time setting
Movement
  • Manual winding movement
  • Power reserve of 10 days
  • 359 components
  • 36 rubies
  • Width: 34.30 mm. Length: 40.30 mm. Thickness: 9.65 mm
  • Balance wheel frequency set at 18,000 alternations per hour
  • Rotation of the first cage in 1 minute
  • Rotation of the second cage in 8 minutes
  • Rotation of the third cage in 1 hour
  • Skeleton Movement
Movement Decoration
  • Microbillage and hand chamfering on the main plate and the tourbillon cage
  • Circular graining on the wheels
  • Red anodization of the tourbillon cage and indicators
Strap & Buckle
  • Hand sewn red Alcantara® strap
  • Grade-2 titanium folding buckle
  • Hand brushed
Price
  • CHF 480,000 excluding taxes

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Celebrates Upcoming “Kingsman” Movie

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Jaeger-LeCoultre in collaboration with MR PORTER has revealed the limited edition Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch ahead of the latest film release for “The King’s Men.”
Jaeger-LeCoutre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch
The limited edition Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch. Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre

If the tailored wardrobes of the British secrete service gentleman “Eggsy,” Merlin and Harry Hart is your epitome of style, the new release from Jaeger-LeCoultre might especially be of interest.

To celebrate the latest installment of The King’s Man film franchise, Swiss watchmakers Jaeger-LeCoultre has joined forces with filmmakers to produce 100 limited edition Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoutre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch Ben Waller For Mr Porter
A tribute to the tailored wardrobe of the Kingsman film characters. Credite: Jaeger-LeCoultre

Taking inspiration from the upcoming film “The King’s Men” which tells the origin story of the gentleman’s secret service organization, Jaeger-LeCoultre has likewise revisited the origins of their brand and used the ultra-thin “Couteau” (French for knife) pocket watch from 1907 as a starting point for the new limited edition.

Reflecting the timeless elegance of the slimline Couteau pocket watch, the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch also features an ultra-thin caliber, specifically the 1.85mm hand-wound caliber 849 housed in a 40mm x 4.5mm 18-karat rose gold case.

Jaeger-LeCoutre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch Side View
Powered by an ultra think 1.85mm hand-wound caliber 849. Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre

Another influencing element of the 1907 Couteau pocket watch that has been translated into the Kingsman watch’s design is the rose gold top-mounted crown contrasted against the mahogany brown alligator-leather strap which borrows from the triangle crown positioned at the top of the 1907 Couteau pocket watch.

Jaeger-LeCoutre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Pocket Watch
Source of inspiration – the 1907 “Couteau” pocket watch. Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre

Upon turning the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watch over, the case-back reveals the discrete Kingsman logo and is engraved with the unique number of 100 that the limited edition piece is.

Like the tailored wardrobe assigned to each of the characters by Ms. Arianne Phillips throughout the three films, the Master Ultra Thin Knife watch is a gentleman’s watch, being both purposeful and understated.

Jaeger-LeCoutre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch Film

Only 100 units of the limited edition Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Knife will be produced. They will be available for purchase on MR PORTER from July 20 and through Jaeger-LeCoultre authorized dealers from September 6 onwards.

Jaeger-LeCoutre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch Trio

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife

Materials: Pink gold and alligator leather

Diameter: 40mm

Height: 4.25mm

Water-resistance: 30m

Power reserve: 35 hours

Price: £26,900 / US$48,520

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