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MB&F LMX Celebrates 10th Anniversary of the Legacy Machine

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This year MB&F celebrates the 10th anniversary of the Legacy Machine with the release of LMX, an edition that revisits and reimagines the very first LM1.

The MB&F Legacy Machine LMX in Titanium and Red Gold. Credit: MB&F
The MB&F Legacy Machine LMX in Titanium and Red Gold. Credit: MB&F

When MB&F first launched the new Legacy Machine collection back in 2011, no-one was more surprised than the watch industry. At the time, the avant-garde Swiss watchmaking company was known for “outlandish” 3D watch shapes, and a traditional round watch from the brand could seriously run the risk of being considered mildly dull.

MB&F LMX celebrates 10 years of the Legacy Machine. Credit: MB&F
MB&F LMX celebrates 10 years of the Legacy Machine. Credit: MB&F

But after four unconventional Horological Machines, MB&F was looking for a new challenge and found it in the question, “What would MB&F have created a century ago, during the golden age of watchmaking?”

The aim was to create a modern-day timepiece that paid tribute to watchmaking excellence of the 18th and 19th centuries, and the first Legacy Machine LM1 was the resulting timepiece.

Created with the classic round watch case. Credit: MB&F
Created with the classic round watch case. Credit: MB&F

Utilizing a classic round watch in appearance, the LM1 featured two white lacquer dials to display the hours and minutes, yet still defied traditional watchmaking concepts by floating the balance wheel high above the watch face rather than keeping it safely protected in a rear-mounted location.

This unique “flying” balance wheel would come to distinguish the Legacy Machine collection from its Horological Machine counterparts and inspire a range of intricately unique pieces, as described by Maximilian Büsser in the video below.

Now ten years later, in the form of the new LMX (X representing 10 in roman numerals), the Legacy Machine LMX has time-traveled back to the very first Legacy Machine model and returned with the two white lacquer dials to display twin timezones, although this time instead of lying flat on the face they’ve also been elevated to new heights – on a 50-degree angle to be specific.

Twin timezone white lacquer dials at 50 degree angles. Credit: MB&F
Twin timezone white lacquer dials at 50 degree angles. Credit: MB&F

While it may appear simple enough at first glance, the very act of tilting the dials required a great deal of ingenuity to produce the transfer of energy from horizontal to vertical planes and is achieved through the engineering of conical gears.

Taking inspiration from later Legacy Machine models like the LM Perpetual Calendar and LM Thunderdome that brought the mechanics to the forefront in an even greater way, the LMX also follows suit and reveals the functional battle-ax-shaped escapement bridge and gear-train components.

The new 3D power-reserve countdown display can rotate depending on the wearer's choice. Credit: MB&F
The new 3D power-reserve countdown display can rotate depending on the wearer’s choice. Credit: MB&F

Another new feature on the Legacy Machine LMX is an entirely novel three-dimensional countdown display (positioned at what would be 12 o’clock on a traditional watch face) that indicates the seven day/168-hour power reserve in either days-of-week on one side of the 3D display or a 1-7 days scale countdown on the other side.

MB&F LMX in Titanium with green CVD treatment on the plates and bridges. Credit: MB&F
MB&F LMX in Titanium with green CVD treatment on the plates and bridges. Credit: MB&F

Thanks to clever engineering, after the watch has been fully wound, the 3D power-reserve display can be rotated so that the wearer can choose which side is visible from their perspective when wearing the watch (the side with the two white lacquer dials facing you).

MB&F LMX Titanium Movement

Interestingly the MB&F LMX was never intended to be an anniversary piece although as fate would have it, Maximillian Büsser’s decision to revisit the first LM1 and ongoing the three-year development time coincided with the 10th anniversary to create the “little city under a sapphire dome” as Büsser’s describes the new timepiece.

MB&F LMX Red Gold Watch Side Profile

The new MB&F Legacy Machine LMX is available from the M.A.D gallery as 18 pieces in Red Gold priced at USD$128,000 or 33 pieces in Titanium and priced at USD$112,000.

MB&F Legacy Machine LMX Details

Engine
  • LM Three-dimensional movement developed exclusively for MB&F
  • Manual winding with three mainspring barrels
  • Power reserve: 7 days (168 hours)
  • Balance frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000bph
  • Number of components: 367
  • Number of jewels: 41
Functions / Indications
  • Hours and minutes: completely independent dual time zones displayed on two dials
  • 3D Hemispherical power reserve with choice of weekday or 7-day indication display
Case
  • Material: 5N+ 18k red gold or Grade 5 titanium
  • High domed sapphire crystal on top and sapphire crystal on the back
  • Dimensions: 44 mm x 21.4 mm
  • Number of components: 27
Strap & Buckle
  • Black leather hand-stitched alligator strap with 5N+ red gold folding buckle matching the case or Grey leather hand-stitched alligator strap with Grade 5 Titanium folding buckle
Price
  • MB&F Legacy Machine LMX Red Gold Edition Price: USD $128,000 (limited to 18 pieces)
  • MB&F Legacy Machine LMX Grade 5 Titanium Price: USD$112,000 (limited to 33 pieces)
MB&F LMX Red Gold Titanium Collection

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Events

Watches & Wonders 2021: Zenith New Releases

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Zenith Watches reveals their latest watch designs at Watches & Wonders 2021: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Collection and a revival of some of their most historic pieces with the new Zenith ICONS program.
Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Collection Black and Blue

This year at Watches & Wonders 2021, Zenith has revealed the new bright and colorful Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Collection along with the revival of some of their most historic pieces thanks to the new Zenith ICONS program.

Looking to the future, Zenith’s new Defy 21 Spectrum collection consists of five color variations representing the different wavelengths of visible light, with each version featuring a bezel set with baguette-cut precious stones to match the colored movements and rubber straps: green tsavorites for the green edition, orange sapphires for the orange edition, blue sapphires for the blue edition, amethyst for the purple edition, and black spinels for the black edition.

Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Orange

Featuring a stainless steel case embedded with 288 brilliant-cut diamonds, the bedazzled timepieces are powered by El Primero 21, Zenith’s revolutionary 1/100th of a second chronograph caliber with matching color movements.

Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Collection Green Purple

The new Zenith Defy Spectrum Collection pieces are limited to 10 pieces of each color and are priced at USD$35,900.

Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Collection Technical Specifications
Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Color Watches

Watch Model

  • Reference 32.9005.9004/05.R944: Orange Limited Edition 10 pieces (Boutique only)
  • Reference 32.9006.9004/06.R918: Blue Limited Edition 10 pieces (Boutique only)
  • Reference 32.9007.9004/07.R922: Purple Limited Edition 10 pieces (Boutique only)
  • Reference 32.9008.9004/08.R943: Green Limited Edition 10 pieces (Boutique only)
  • Reference 32.9009.9004/09.R921: Black Limited Edition 10 pieces (Boutique only)

Case

  • Stainless steel set with 288 VVS brilliant-cut diamonds
  • Bezel set with 44 VVS colored baguette-cut sapphires
  • Diameter: 44 mm
  • Height: 15.4mm
  • See-through case back
  • Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
  • Water-resistant to 3 ATM

Dial/Functions/Indications

  • Openworked dial with two different-colored counters
  • Colored main plate on movement + colored oscillating weight
  • Rhodium-plated hours and hands markers with Super-LumiNova®
  • Hours and minutes in the center with small seconds at 9 o’clock 1/100th of a second Chronograph: Central chronograph hand that makes one turn each second, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 60-second counter at 6 o’clock, Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock.

Movement

  • El Primero 9004 automotive movement
  • Power reserve minimum 50 hours
  • Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5Hz)

Bracelet

  • Colored rubber with “Cordura effect” and titanium double folding clasp

Price

  • Price of the Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Collection Watch (limited to 10 pieces of each color): USD$35,900 /34,900 CHF available from June 2021

The second announcement from Zenith is their plan to revive some of their most sought-after and important vintage models with the Zenith ICONS program.

Zenith Icons Program Watch Box

Selecting the brand’s most important historical references, Zenith will curate a selection of iconic and vintage Zenith watches to be restored and certified by the Manufacture in Le Locle and sold exclusively at Zenith’s boutiques.

Each Zenith ICON watch will come with a 3-year warranty and “passport” to track its path in this new life.

“This is an exciting new chapter for Zenith’s legacy, and I’m extremely proud of the teams at the Zenith Manufacture for taking on this initiative,” shared Julien Tornare Zenith CEO. “We are bridging the past with the future by celebrating Zenith’s rich history and the references that have become true icons of watchmaking. We are acquiring historical timepieces from sources who have cherished them for a very long time and allowing others the opportunity to enjoy them. These rare pieces can now embark on a second life using existing resources at the Manufacture, and I’m really excited to share these pieces of history with our customers. This is just the beginning!”

The Zenith Icons program begins with finding the most well-preserved examples of its most iconic historical references.

Once a watch is found that appears to be in excellent condition, the Manufacture works with its Heritage department to conduct research, tracing back the watch’s origins to ensure that all parts are genuine and coherent.

Thanks to a massive archive spanning the entire history of the Manufacture’s production, Zenith can identify and authenticate even the smallest component of any watch it has ever built. Once the Heritage Department approves a watch, the Manufacture purchases it and hands it to the Heritage team, who conduct further inspections on it.

Once the Heritage department has approved the watch, the timepiece enters the restoration phase to retain as many original parts and materials as possible.

After this is completed, a “passport” is issued for the Zenith ICON watch and stored digitally in the Zenith Archives to provide a 3-year warranty covering the movements and any manufacturing defects and normal wear-and-tear of components.

The aim is to release Zenith Icons pieces as capsule collections, bringing together references with a shared history, function, or theme. One of the first collections, available at Shanghai Nanjing West Road Boutique, will focus on some of the earliest and most iconic El Primero references from 1969 to 1972.

A384
The A384 made its debut in 1969 as the face of the El Primero that figured on launch press cuttings and on the cover of the first El Primero brochures. It stands out with its “square barrel” case signed with the Zenith 4-pointed star logo and its “panda” dial – which has turned tropical in this case, making it all the more desirable.

Zenith Icons Watch A384

A385
One of the original trio of stainless steel references that launched alongside the El Primero calibre, the A385 is the model Zenith chose for its advertisements and photo-shoots in 1969. It left its mark on the era with its “shaded smoky brown” gradient dial, unprecedented at the time, and its “square barrel” case, signed with the Zenith 4-pointed star logo.

Zenith Icons Watch A385

A386
What would become the template for Zenith’s signature Chronomaster line, the A386 was launched in 1969 in a more classical round-case with straight lugs variant of the first El Primero-equipped watch. It garnered attention for its unprecedented tri-colour chronograph counters and decimal scale, becoming one of the most significant references in the history of the El Primero calibre and an icon among chronograph wristwatches.

Zenith Icons Watch A386

More Watches and Wonders 2021 Participating Brands

A.Lange & Söhne

Arnold & Son

Baume & Mercier

Bulgari

Carl F. Bucherer

Cartier

Chanel

Chopard

Chronoswiss

Corum

Ferdinand Berthoud

Greubel Forsey

H. Moser & Cie.

Hermès

Hublot

IWC

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Louis Moinet

Louis Vuitton

Maurice Lacroix

Montblanc

NOMOS

Oris

Panerai

Patek Philippe

Piaget

Purnell

Rebellion Timepieces

Ressence

Roger Dubuis

Rolex

Speake-Marin

TAG Heuer

Trilobe

Tudor

Ulysse Nardin

Vacheron Constantin

Zenith

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Watches & Wonders 2021: H.Moser & Cie New Releases

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H.Moser & Cie reveals their latest watch designs at Watches & Wonders 2021: The Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool, Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool and the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye.
H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Watch Lifestyle
Watches and Wonders 2021 Reveal: H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool. Credit: H.Moser & Cie

H.Moser & Cie has revealed three new watches as part of Watches & Wonders this year, with the first two taking inspiration from the turquoise waters of paradise islands: the Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool edition and the Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool edition, which both share the same colored “blue lagoon” fumé dial.

Featuring a “barely there” transparent lacquer H. Moser &Cie. logo, affixed at 12 o’clock, the latest editions borrow from Moser’s “Concept” design, eliminating the logo entirely. Meanwhile, both models share the same anthracite grey faceted applique indices with Super-LumiNova markers for night-time viewing.

H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Logo
The transparent logo found on the dial of both Pioneer MEGA Cool models. Credit: H.Moser & Cie

The Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool is powered by Moser’s own in-house HMC 200 movement. In contrast, the Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA COOL is powered by the self-winding HMC 804 caliber, with both models boasting a three-day power reserve.

H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon
H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool with Blue Lagoon dial. Credit: H.Moser & Cie

Both Pioneer MEGA Cool editions are also water-resistant up to 12 ATM and are available with four different straps– a rubber, Kevlar, alligator leather strap, or a metal bracelet.

H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Watch with bracelet, rubber and kevlar strap
H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool with Blue Lagoon dial. Credit: H.Moser & Cie

The third new watch revealed is the semi-precious stone inspired Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye with two unique hued dials that have entirely removed the logo and any markings to create a blank canvas that draws attention to the one-minute flying tourbillon.

H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger's Eye Ox Falcon
The new H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye in Falcon’s Eye and Ox’s Eye. Credit: HMC

The first model is the red-hued dial inspired by the stone Ox’s Eye, while the second is the blue “Falcon’s Eye” dial created using Tiger’s Eye, a variety of microcrystalline quartz.

Formed of amosite, the fibers of Tiger’s Eye are partially replaced with silica following a natural transformation known as “pseudo morphosis” that gives the stone its iridescent effect when polished. When the stone’s various layers include fibrous crocidolite and silica, the stone takes on a blue color and is known as “Falcon’s Eye,” while a reddish tone is known as Ox’s Eye.

H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger's Eye Falcon Eye
Due to the nature of working with natural stone each dial pattern is completely unique. Credit: H.Moser & Cie

“Tiger’s Eye is a natural reinterpretation of Moser fumé dials, which have been a key part of the brand’s success,” shares Edouard Meylan, H. Moser & Cie CEO. “Its horizontal lines lend it balance and symmetry. It is a dynamic stone which seems to come to life as it catches the light. The richness of its details are revealed gradually; it must be admired from different angles to fully appreciate its beauty. Just like a Moser timepiece. With the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye model, we wanted to enhance the brilliance of the Tiger’s Eye using a highly contemporary approach. The 1970s has been a great source of inspiration for us in terms of design and aesthetic trends. Tiger’s Eye was very popular at this time, and it was showcased in a number of timepieces, with a look that was quite Baroque or Rococo in style. We have opted for a contrasting interpretation, minimalist and understated, with a Tiger’sEye dial featuring no logo or indices, adorned with only the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock”.

H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger's Eye Ox's Eye
The Red Gold Ox’s Eye variant is limited to 50 pieces in total. Credit: H.Moser & Cie

Only 50 pieces will be made of each edition due to the difficulty in sourcing stones with regular parallel lines and the complexity required to produce the dials.

As Tiger’s Eye stones are all different, each piece will be entirely unique, and the Moser’s workshop anticipates producing only 20 pieces per year.

H.Moser & Cie’s new releases are available from their online store or through authorized retailers.


H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Fumé Dial Technical Specifications
H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon
H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Fumé Dial. Credit: HMC

Watch Model

  • Reference 3200-1214: Steel model with Blue Lagoon fumé dial edition (with steel bracelet, rubber, Kevlar or alligator leather strap)

Case

  • Solid steel case with domed sapphire crystal
  • Diameter: 42.8 mm
  • Height: 10.6mm (without sapphire crystal)
  • See-through case back
  • Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
  • Water-resistant to 12 ATM

Dial/Functions/Indications

  • Blue Lagoon fumé with sunburst pattern
  • Anthracite grey hour and minute hands Globolight® inserts
  • Anthracite grey applique indexes with hour markers in Super-LumiNova®
  • H.Moser & Cie logo in transparent lacquer
  • Hours and minutes
  • Central seconds

Movement

  • HMC 200 self-winding calibre
  • Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
  • Height: 5.5 mm
  • Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
  • Jewels: 27 jewels
  • Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
  • Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
  • Original Straumann Hairspring® with flat overcoil
  • Finish with Moser double stripes

Bracelet

  • Steel bracelet, Kevlar, rubber or alligator leather strap
  • Steel pin buckle, engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo

Price

  • Price of the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Watch: US$15,300

H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Fumé Dial Technical Specifications
H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Watch with bracelet, rubber and kevlar strap
H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Fumé Dial. Credit: HMC

Watch Model

  • Reference 3804-1205: Steel model with Blue Lagoon fumé dial limited edition of 50 pieces (with steel bracelet, Kevlar, rubber or alligator leather strap)

Case

  • Solid steel case with domed sapphire crystal
  • Diameter: 42.8 mm
  • Height: 10.8mm (without sapphire crystal)
  • See-through case back
  • Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
  • Water-resistant to 12 ATM

Dial/Functions/Indications

  • Blue Lagoon fumé with sunburst pattern
  • H.Moser & Cie logo in transparent lacquer
  • Anthracite grey applique indexes, with hour markers in Super-LumiNova®
  • Anthracite grey hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
  • Hours and minutes
  • Central seconds

Movement

  • HMC 804 self-winding calibre
  • Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
  • Height: 5.5 mm
  • Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
  • Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
  • Solid 18K red gold engraved oscillating weight
  • Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
  • Original double hairspring
  • One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised bridges

Bracelet

  • Steel bracelet, Kevlar, rubber or alligator leather strap
  • Steel clasp engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo

Price

  • Price of the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Watch: US$54,900

H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye Technical Specifications
H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger's Eye Ox Falcon
H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye. Credit: HMC

Watch Model

  • Reference 1804-0222: White gold with blue Falcon’s Eye natural stone dial and blue alligator strap limited to 50 pieces
  • Reference 1804-0401: Red gold with red Ox’s Eye natural stone dial with brown alligator leather strap limited to 50 pieces

Case

  • 18K red gold or white gold
  • Diameter: 40 mm
  • Height: 11.2mm (without sapphire crystal)
  • See-through case back

Dial/Functions/Indications

  • Natural Tiger’s Eye Stone in Falcon’s Eye or Ox’s Eye
  • Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands

Movement

  • HMC 804 self-winding calibre
  • Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
  • Height: 5.5 mm
  • Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
  • Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
  • Solid 18K red gold engraved oscillating weight
  • Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
  • Original double hairspring
  • One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised bridges
  • Finish with Moser double stripes

Bracelet

  • Blue or brown alligator leather strap
  • 18K white gold or red gold folding clasp engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo

Price

  • Price of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye Watch: US$75,900

More Watches and Wonders 2021 Participating Brands

A.Lange & Söhne

Arnold & Son

Baume & Mercier

Bulgari

Carl F. Bucherer

Cartier

Chanel

Chopard

Chronoswiss

Corum

Ferdinand Berthoud

Greubel Forsey

H. Moser & Cie.

Hermès

Hublot

IWC

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Louis Moinet

Louis Vuitton

Maurice Lacroix

Montblanc

NOMOS

Oris

Panerai

Patek Philippe

Piaget

Purnell

Rebellion Timepieces

Ressence

Roger Dubuis

Rolex

Speake-Marin

TAG Heuer

Trilobe

Tudor

Ulysse Nardin

Vacheron Constantin

Zenith

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Events

Watches & Wonders 2021 Digital Edition Overview

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In a time when travel is restricted, this year’s online digital Watches & Wonders 2021 event is every watch enthusiast’s passport to the biggest watch releases of the year.
Watches and Wonders 2021

After the upheaval of 2020 that saw the demise of Baselworld and then the cancellation of the physical in-person Watches & Wonders 2021 event in Geneva, this year’s online event comes highly anticipated by watch enthusiasts and will see a host of watch brands reveal their new timepieces for the year.

Presented as a digital trade show this year, Watches & Wonders (previously known as the SIHH – Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) will be delivered over 10 days from April 7 to 13 with releases from 38 participating brands.

Stay tuned for new reveals over the coming days…..

Watches and Wonders 2021 Participating Brands

A.Lange & Söhne

Arnold & Son

Baume & Mercier

Bulgari

Carl F. Bucherer

Cartier

Chanel

Chopard

Chronoswiss

Corum

Ferdinand Berthoud

Greubel Forsey

H. Moser & Cie.

Hermès

Hublot

IWC

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Louis Moinet

Louis Vuitton

Maurice Lacroix

Montblanc

NOMOS

Oris

Panerai

Patek Philippe

Piaget

Purnell

Rebellion Timepieces

Ressence

Roger Dubuis

Rolex

Speake-Marin

TAG Heuer

Trilobe

Tudor

Ulysse Nardin

Vacheron Constantin

Zenith

A following physical Watch & Wonders event will held in Shanghai from April 14-18 2021 and will feature new model releases especially for the Chinese market along with talks and panels held by industry experts and the popular workbench demonstrations.

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