Lifestyle
MB&F Releases Four New Limited Edition HM9-SV “Sapphire Vision” Watches
The new MB&F HM9-SV “Sapphire Vision” watch is inspired by the underwater city of Atlantis and features four new crystal-case limited editions.
The new MB&F HM9-SV “Sapphire Vision,” is a crystal-cased update of the Swiss bespoke watchmaker’s Horological Machine No.9 (aka the HM9 “Flow”) first introduced in 2018 and is limited to only 20 pieces in total with a price of CHF 420,000 each.
Described at the time by MB&F’s founder Maximilian Büsser as “the most beautiful movement we’ve created to date,” the intricate design of the HM9’s movement was initially enclosed in a three-dimensional curved metal case made of titanium or red gold for the “Air” and “Road” editions and celebrated the automotive and aeronautical achievements of the 1940s and ’50s.
Now, inspired by the mythical underwater city of Atlantis, the latest release of the HM9-SV “Sapphire Vision” resembles the kind of glass-enclosed exploratory vessel one could imagine patrolling the waters around Atlantis. For the first time, the full inner workings of the HM9 movement has been revealed by MB&F, thanks to HM9-SV’s new see-through case created out of sapphire crystal.
Officially known as corundum (sapphire crystal is its gem-quality form), the mineral rates nine on Moh’s scale of hardness and is surpassed only by diamond and a few other materials in terms of hardness, making sapphire watch crystals almost impossible to scratch. The flip-side to this is that it also incredibly challenging and time-consuming to work with as a material, and while MB&F have already been working with sapphire crystal watch designs since 2005, it still takes around 350 hours of machining and polishing to create the single sapphire crystal case of the new HM9-SV (although this time would be much longer if they had not already had so much experience from previous designs like the HM4 Thunderbolt with its double-arch crystal case or the HM3 FrogX).
Maximilian Büsser once noted that when designing the HM9, he was inspired by Philippe Dufour’s Duality watch, the first-ever wristwatch with two balance wheels and a differential. In comparison to the Duality, though, Büsser wanted to see the two balance wheels of the movement during everyday wear, which is how they came to be visibly encased under two separate sapphire crystal teardrops on the original HM9.
With the new HM9-SV, the wearer can now see not only the two delicate flying balance wheel “beating hearts” and the planetary differential at the center, which averages out the two wheels and sends the mechanically processed information vertically through the conical gears to the vertical time display, but the entirety of the movement and every one of its components.
Due to the highly-specialized nature of MB&F’s 3D watch designs, the team were also required to create the first-ever three-dimensional water gasket and were also able to achieve water-resistance of the HM9-SV up to a depth of 30m so wearers will not have to worry about being caught in the rain (although you may want to stay inside the vessel should you be paying a visit yourself to Atlantis anytime soon).
Four different editions have been created for the release of the new MB&F HM9-SV and will be limited to five pieces of each. Two editions with red gold frames and either a black or blue colored movement and two editions with white gold frames and either a red gold plated or purple movement.
- HM9-SV Red Gold Frame with NAC-coated black engine (91.SRL.BL)
- HM9-SV Red Gold Frame with PVD-coated blue engine (91.SRL.BU
- HM9-SV White Gold Frame with Red Gold plated engine (91.SWL.RG)
- HM9-SV White Gold Frame with PVD-coated purple engine (91.SWL.PU)
MB&F HM9-SV Sapphire Version Details
Variants
- HM9-SV Red Gold frame with NAC-coated black engine (91.SRL.BL)
- HM9-SV Red Gold frame with PVD-coated blue engine (91.SRL.BU
- HM9-SV White Gold frame with Red Gold plated engine (91.SWL.RG)
- HM9-SV White Gold frame with PVD-coated purple engine (91.SWL.PU)
Engine
- 3D Horological Engine No. 9 (HM9). Manual-winding in-house movement consisting of a double-balance system with planetary differential
- Power reserve: 45 hours
- Balance frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000 bph
- Number of components: 301
- Number of jewels: 52
Functions / Indications
- Hour/minute dial in sapphire crystal with Super-LumiNova on the number and indexes
Case
- Material: Sapphire Crystal case with frame in 18K white or red gold
- Dimensions: 57 mm x 47 mm x 23 mm
- Number of components: 52
- Water resistance: 90ft / 30m / 3 ATM
Strap & Buckle
- Hand-stitched alligator strap with folding buckle in either red gold or white gold
Price
- MB&F HM9-SV Sapphire Vision Price: CHF 420,000 + VAT (approx USD$474,500 + tax / EUR 389,900 + tax)
Zenith Watches reveals their latest watch designs at Watches & Wonders 2021: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Collection and a revival of some of their most historic pieces with the new Zenith ICONS program.
This year at Watches & Wonders 2021, Zenith has revealed the new bright and colorful Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Collection along with the revival of some of their most historic pieces thanks to the new Zenith ICONS program.
Looking to the future, Zenith’s new Defy 21 Spectrum collection consists of five color variations representing the different wavelengths of visible light, with each version featuring a bezel set with baguette-cut precious stones to match the colored movements and rubber straps: green tsavorites for the green edition, orange sapphires for the orange edition, blue sapphires for the blue edition, amethyst for the purple edition, and black spinels for the black edition.
Featuring a stainless steel case embedded with 288 brilliant-cut diamonds, the bedazzled timepieces are powered by El Primero 21, Zenith’s revolutionary 1/100th of a second chronograph caliber with matching color movements.
The new Zenith Defy Spectrum Collection pieces are limited to 10 pieces of each color and are priced at USD$35,900.
Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Collection Technical Specifications
Watch Model
- Reference 32.9005.9004/05.R944: Orange Limited Edition 10 pieces (Boutique only)
- Reference 32.9006.9004/06.R918: Blue Limited Edition 10 pieces (Boutique only)
- Reference 32.9007.9004/07.R922: Purple Limited Edition 10 pieces (Boutique only)
- Reference 32.9008.9004/08.R943: Green Limited Edition 10 pieces (Boutique only)
- Reference 32.9009.9004/09.R921: Black Limited Edition 10 pieces (Boutique only)
Case
- Stainless steel set with 288 VVS brilliant-cut diamonds
- Bezel set with 44 VVS colored baguette-cut sapphires
- Diameter: 44 mm
- Height: 15.4mm
- See-through case back
- Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
- Water-resistant to 3 ATM
Dial/Functions/Indications
- Openworked dial with two different-colored counters
- Colored main plate on movement + colored oscillating weight
- Rhodium-plated hours and hands markers with Super-LumiNova®
- Hours and minutes in the center with small seconds at 9 o’clock 1/100th of a second Chronograph: Central chronograph hand that makes one turn each second, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 60-second counter at 6 o’clock, Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock.
Movement
- El Primero 9004 automotive movement
- Power reserve minimum 50 hours
- Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5Hz)
Bracelet
- Colored rubber with “Cordura effect” and titanium double folding clasp
Price
- Price of the Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum Collection Watch (limited to 10 pieces of each color): USD$35,900 /34,900 CHF available from June 2021
The second announcement from Zenith is their plan to revive some of their most sought-after and important vintage models with the Zenith ICONS program.
Selecting the brand’s most important historical references, Zenith will curate a selection of iconic and vintage Zenith watches to be restored and certified by the Manufacture in Le Locle and sold exclusively at Zenith’s boutiques.
Each Zenith ICON watch will come with a 3-year warranty and “passport” to track its path in this new life.
“This is an exciting new chapter for Zenith’s legacy, and I’m extremely proud of the teams at the Zenith Manufacture for taking on this initiative,” shared Julien Tornare Zenith CEO. “We are bridging the past with the future by celebrating Zenith’s rich history and the references that have become true icons of watchmaking. We are acquiring historical timepieces from sources who have cherished them for a very long time and allowing others the opportunity to enjoy them. These rare pieces can now embark on a second life using existing resources at the Manufacture, and I’m really excited to share these pieces of history with our customers. This is just the beginning!”
The Zenith Icons program begins with finding the most well-preserved examples of its most iconic historical references.
Once a watch is found that appears to be in excellent condition, the Manufacture works with its Heritage department to conduct research, tracing back the watch’s origins to ensure that all parts are genuine and coherent.
Thanks to a massive archive spanning the entire history of the Manufacture’s production, Zenith can identify and authenticate even the smallest component of any watch it has ever built. Once the Heritage Department approves a watch, the Manufacture purchases it and hands it to the Heritage team, who conduct further inspections on it.
Once the Heritage department has approved the watch, the timepiece enters the restoration phase to retain as many original parts and materials as possible.
After this is completed, a “passport” is issued for the Zenith ICON watch and stored digitally in the Zenith Archives to provide a 3-year warranty covering the movements and any manufacturing defects and normal wear-and-tear of components.
The aim is to release Zenith Icons pieces as capsule collections, bringing together references with a shared history, function, or theme. One of the first collections, available at Shanghai Nanjing West Road Boutique, will focus on some of the earliest and most iconic El Primero references from 1969 to 1972.
A384
The A384 made its debut in 1969 as the face of the El Primero that figured on launch press cuttings and on the cover of the first El Primero brochures. It stands out with its “square barrel” case signed with the Zenith 4-pointed star logo and its “panda” dial – which has turned tropical in this case, making it all the more desirable.
A385
One of the original trio of stainless steel references that launched alongside the El Primero calibre, the A385 is the model Zenith chose for its advertisements and photo-shoots in 1969. It left its mark on the era with its “shaded smoky brown” gradient dial, unprecedented at the time, and its “square barrel” case, signed with the Zenith 4-pointed star logo.
A386
What would become the template for Zenith’s signature Chronomaster line, the A386 was launched in 1969 in a more classical round-case with straight lugs variant of the first El Primero-equipped watch. It garnered attention for its unprecedented tri-colour chronograph counters and decimal scale, becoming one of the most significant references in the history of the El Primero calibre and an icon among chronograph wristwatches.
More Watches and Wonders 2021 Participating Brands
H.Moser & Cie reveals their latest watch designs at Watches & Wonders 2021: The Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool, Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool and the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye.
H.Moser & Cie has revealed three new watches as part of Watches & Wonders this year, with the first two taking inspiration from the turquoise waters of paradise islands: the Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool edition and the Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool edition, which both share the same colored “blue lagoon” fumé dial.
Featuring a “barely there” transparent lacquer H. Moser &Cie. logo, affixed at 12 o’clock, the latest editions borrow from Moser’s “Concept” design, eliminating the logo entirely. Meanwhile, both models share the same anthracite grey faceted applique indices with Super-LumiNova markers for night-time viewing.
The Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool is powered by Moser’s own in-house HMC 200 movement. In contrast, the Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA COOL is powered by the self-winding HMC 804 caliber, with both models boasting a three-day power reserve.
Both Pioneer MEGA Cool editions are also water-resistant up to 12 ATM and are available with four different straps– a rubber, Kevlar, alligator leather strap, or a metal bracelet.
The third new watch revealed is the semi-precious stone inspired Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye with two unique hued dials that have entirely removed the logo and any markings to create a blank canvas that draws attention to the one-minute flying tourbillon.
The first model is the red-hued dial inspired by the stone Ox’s Eye, while the second is the blue “Falcon’s Eye” dial created using Tiger’s Eye, a variety of microcrystalline quartz.
Formed of amosite, the fibers of Tiger’s Eye are partially replaced with silica following a natural transformation known as “pseudo morphosis” that gives the stone its iridescent effect when polished. When the stone’s various layers include fibrous crocidolite and silica, the stone takes on a blue color and is known as “Falcon’s Eye,” while a reddish tone is known as Ox’s Eye.
“Tiger’s Eye is a natural reinterpretation of Moser fumé dials, which have been a key part of the brand’s success,” shares Edouard Meylan, H. Moser & Cie CEO. “Its horizontal lines lend it balance and symmetry. It is a dynamic stone which seems to come to life as it catches the light. The richness of its details are revealed gradually; it must be admired from different angles to fully appreciate its beauty. Just like a Moser timepiece. With the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye model, we wanted to enhance the brilliance of the Tiger’s Eye using a highly contemporary approach. The 1970s has been a great source of inspiration for us in terms of design and aesthetic trends. Tiger’s Eye was very popular at this time, and it was showcased in a number of timepieces, with a look that was quite Baroque or Rococo in style. We have opted for a contrasting interpretation, minimalist and understated, with a Tiger’sEye dial featuring no logo or indices, adorned with only the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock”.
Only 50 pieces will be made of each edition due to the difficulty in sourcing stones with regular parallel lines and the complexity required to produce the dials.
As Tiger’s Eye stones are all different, each piece will be entirely unique, and the Moser’s workshop anticipates producing only 20 pieces per year.
H.Moser & Cie’s new releases are available from their online store or through authorized retailers.
H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Fumé Dial Technical Specifications
Watch Model
- Reference 3200-1214: Steel model with Blue Lagoon fumé dial edition (with steel bracelet, rubber, Kevlar or alligator leather strap)
Case
- Solid steel case with domed sapphire crystal
- Diameter: 42.8 mm
- Height: 10.6mm (without sapphire crystal)
- See-through case back
- Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
- Water-resistant to 12 ATM
Dial/Functions/Indications
- Blue Lagoon fumé with sunburst pattern
- Anthracite grey hour and minute hands Globolight® inserts
- Anthracite grey applique indexes with hour markers in Super-LumiNova®
- H.Moser & Cie logo in transparent lacquer
- Hours and minutes
- Central seconds
Movement
- HMC 200 self-winding calibre
- Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
- Height: 5.5 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
- Jewels: 27 jewels
- Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
- Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
- Original Straumann Hairspring® with flat overcoil
- Finish with Moser double stripes
Bracelet
- Steel bracelet, Kevlar, rubber or alligator leather strap
- Steel pin buckle, engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo
Price
- Price of the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Watch: US$15,300
H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Fumé Dial Technical Specifications
Watch Model
- Reference 3804-1205: Steel model with Blue Lagoon fumé dial limited edition of 50 pieces (with steel bracelet, Kevlar, rubber or alligator leather strap)
Case
- Solid steel case with domed sapphire crystal
- Diameter: 42.8 mm
- Height: 10.8mm (without sapphire crystal)
- See-through case back
- Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
- Water-resistant to 12 ATM
Dial/Functions/Indications
- Blue Lagoon fumé with sunburst pattern
- H.Moser & Cie logo in transparent lacquer
- Anthracite grey applique indexes, with hour markers in Super-LumiNova®
- Anthracite grey hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
- Hours and minutes
- Central seconds
Movement
- HMC 804 self-winding calibre
- Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
- Height: 5.5 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
- Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
- Solid 18K red gold engraved oscillating weight
- Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
- Original double hairspring
- One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised bridges
Bracelet
- Steel bracelet, Kevlar, rubber or alligator leather strap
- Steel clasp engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo
Price
- Price of the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon MEGA Cool Blue Lagoon Watch: US$54,900
H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye Technical Specifications
Watch Model
- Reference 1804-0222: White gold with blue Falcon’s Eye natural stone dial and blue alligator strap limited to 50 pieces
- Reference 1804-0401: Red gold with red Ox’s Eye natural stone dial with brown alligator leather strap limited to 50 pieces
Case
- 18K red gold or white gold
- Diameter: 40 mm
- Height: 11.2mm (without sapphire crystal)
- See-through case back
Dial/Functions/Indications
- Natural Tiger’s Eye Stone in Falcon’s Eye or Ox’s Eye
- Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands
Movement
- HMC 804 self-winding calibre
- Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
- Height: 5.5 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
- Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
- Solid 18K red gold engraved oscillating weight
- Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
- Original double hairspring
- One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised bridges
- Finish with Moser double stripes
Bracelet
- Blue or brown alligator leather strap
- 18K white gold or red gold folding clasp engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo
Price
- Price of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye Watch: US$75,900
More Watches and Wonders 2021 Participating Brands
In a time when travel is restricted, this year’s online digital Watches & Wonders 2021 event is every watch enthusiast’s passport to the biggest watch releases of the year.
After the upheaval of 2020 that saw the demise of Baselworld and then the cancellation of the physical in-person Watches & Wonders 2021 event in Geneva, this year’s online event comes highly anticipated by watch enthusiasts and will see a host of watch brands reveal their new timepieces for the year.
Presented as a digital trade show this year, Watches & Wonders (previously known as the SIHH – Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) will be delivered over 10 days from April 7 to 13 with releases from 38 participating brands.
Stay tuned for new reveals over the coming days…..
Watches and Wonders 2021 Participating Brands
A following physical Watch & Wonders event will held in Shanghai from April 14-18 2021 and will feature new model releases especially for the Chinese market along with talks and panels held by industry experts and the popular workbench demonstrations.
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