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H.Moser & Cie and MB&F Collaborate To Create Two Special Watches

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Swiss watchmakers H.Moser & Cie and MB&F have joined forces to create special versions of each other’s watch designs: The MB&F inspired H.Moser Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and the H.Moser inspired MB&F LM101.
The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion H.Moser x MB&F (left) and LM1010 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie(right)
The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion H.Moser x MB&F (left) and LM1010 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie(right): MB&F LM101

Swiss watchmakers H.Moser & Cie and MB&F have just announced the release of two new watches and while this may look like a simple “collaboration” from the outside, it has been much more than that for the two passionate watchmaking companies.

In a world where “trade secrets” can often be jealously guarded, two CEO’s wanted a different experience and were open to pooling the skills of their Maisons in the spirit of openness and transparency, and creating something truly unique for each brand through the combining their expertise and DNA.

One CEO is Maximilian Büsser of MB&F, a watchmaker who left his role as CEO at Harry Winston Timepieces in 2005 to create MB&F – a watchmaking laboratory dedicated to art, micromechanical engineering and the design and creation of small editions of exciting watches.

The other is Edouard Meylan, CEO of H.Moser & Cie, who was tasked with turning the company around after his family acquired it in 2013. Originally founded in 1828 by watchmaker Heinrich Moser, the watchmaker’s clients included Russian princes and members of the Russian Imperial Court but it disappeared for many years before being reborn in 2005 with the help of a great-grandson, although it struggled to remain profitable until the MELB Group stepped in with their expertise in watchmaking.

Friends and CEO's - Maximilian Büsser & Edouard Meylan
Friends and CEO’s – Maximilian Büsser & Edouard Meylan

Having worked with H.Moser & Cie for over ten years already (their sister company Precision Engineering AG supplies the balance springs for MB&F watch pieces) Maximilian Büsser initially reached out to his friend Edouard Meylan.

“When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series,” Maximilian Büsser recalled. “Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines. After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50% Indian and 50% Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking? I therefore agreed and suggested the Flying T model, which is particularly dear to my heart.“

The result? Two jointly created H. Moser & Cie x MB&F models that include a unique features used by each watch brand for the first time: the first use of a double hairspring in an MB&F watch and the first use of a cylindrical hairspring in a H.Moser & Cie watch.

Both versions of the watches will be available in several dial color versions, and issued in 15-piece limited series to celebrate the 15th year anniversary of both MB&F and the relaunch of H.Moser & Cie.

The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser x MB&F Watch

The H.Moser Cylindrical Tourbillon could best be described as a mash-up of the H.Moser and Cie Endeavour Concept and MB&F’s Legacy Machine FlyingT.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion with Funky Blue fumé dial.
Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion with Funky Blue fumé dial. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

For H.Moser & Cie’s Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon the watchmakers decided to use the eye-catching “clutter-free” dial of the Endeavour Concept as a starting point, add in their iconic smokey look fumé dials and incorporate MB&F’s distinctive three-dimensional use of movements that sees a one-minute flying tourbillon sitting above the dial at 12’o clock and a sapphire tilted subdial at 6’o’clock. All of which are housed under a large sapphire crystal dome.

Like many of MB&F’s three-dimensional designs, the tilted subdial is designed to be read only by the user and is mounted on a conical gear train ensuring optimal torque transmission from one plane to the other.

Three-dimensional elements enclosed in a sapphire dome.
Three-dimensional elements enclosed in a sapphire dome. Credit: Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

As Edouard Meylan describes it, “We have “Moserized” the MB&F universe by developing a sapphire subdial, which melts into the background so as to highlight the beauty of our fumé dials. And to preserve the purity and elegance of this true work of horological art, we have inscribed our logo like a watermark on the sapphire subdial, thereby underlining the personal character and intimate relationship binding it to its owner”.

For H.Moser & Cie, this also marks the first time the brand has featured a cylindrical hairspring in a watch design. Using the same Precision Engineering AG made cylindrical hairspring as MB&F’s LM Thunderdome, the cylindrical hairspring is reminiscent of a corkscrew, rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff and beating steadily like a heartbeat.

A see-through sapphire subdial with cylindrical hairspring.
A see-through sapphire subdial with cylindrical hairspring. Credit: Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Invented in the 18th century by English watchmaker John Arnold, the cylindrical hairspring was created with the goal to improve isochronism, the ability of the hairspring to maintain constant regardless of movements due to external forces.

By holding the shape of a cylinder and being fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, it reduces the friction at the balance staff’s pivot and greatly improves isochronism.

Limited edition of 15 pieces for each color.
Limited edition of 15 pieces for each color. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Due to its specific shape, the cylindrical hairspring requires more space in a watch design and is extremely difficult to produce, taking ten times longer than a traditional hairspring. With very few companies having the expertise and skill required to produce cylindrical hairsprings, they tend to be produced only in very small numbers for highly exclusive watches.

Limited to 15 pieces of each design, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F is available in 5 different fumé colors: Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue.

The inner workings of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser & Cie x MB&F.
The inner workings of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser & Cie x MB&F.

The LM101 MB&F × H. Moser Watch

Revisiting one of MB&F’s most beloved designs, the Legacy Machine 101 has been given the H.Moser Concept treatment, stripped back to its simplest by the removal of the two floating subdials, logos and engravings on the dial.

The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Red fumé dial.
The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Red fumé dial. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Instead of the original Kari Voutilainen designed dial of the Legacy Machine 101, the LM101 MB&F x H.Moser collaboration watch features the smoked fumé dials of H.Moser & Cie and display the small watch hands directly on the dial, indicating the hours, minutes and the 45-hour power reserve.

The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Cosmic Green fumé dial.
The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Cosmic Green fumé dial. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Like the original LM101, the suspended flying balance wheel is the star of the show although it has been completely redesigned for this new edition and features a Straumann® double balance spring for the first time in an MB&F watch.

Made with 221 individual components.
Made with 221 individual components. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

By utilizing a pair of matching balance hairsprings, one turning clockwise and the other anti-clockwise, the displacement of the point of gravity undergone by each hairspring as it expands is corrected, significantly improving precision and isochronism. In addition, the paired balance springs also reduce the friction effect normally encountered with a single balance spring, resulting in optimized isochronism.

The eye-catching suspended "flying" balance wheel of the Legacy Machine 101.
The eye-catching suspended “flying” balance wheel of the Legacy Machine 101. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Available in four different fumé dial colors: Red fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Aqua Blue fumé and, Funky Blue fumé, the LM101 features a steel case (only the third time an MB&F watch has been made in steel) and will be limited to 15 pieces of each color.

Steel case with hand-stitched calfskin leather strap.
Steel case with hand-stitched calfskin leather strap. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser x MB&F Watch Technical Specifications

Watch Models
  • Ref 1810-1200: Funky Blue fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1201: Burgundy fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1202: Cosmic Green fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1203: Off-White fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1204: Ice Blue fumé with sunburst pattern (limited to 15 pieces)
Movement
  • HMC 810 three-dimensional automatic Manufacture calibre
  • Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
  • Height: 5.5 mm
  • Balance Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
  • Number of jewels: 29
  • Number of components: 184
  • Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
  • Oscillating weight in 18-carat gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo
  • Power reserve: minimum 72 hours
  • Cylindrical hairspring
  • One-minute flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock with skeletonised bridges
Functions/Indications
  • Hours and the minutes displayed on a 40° vertically tilted sapphire dial at 6 o’clock
  • Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands
Case
  • Steel case topped by a high domed sapphire crystal
  • Diameter: 42.0 mm
  • Height: 19.5 mm (9.4mm without crystal sapphire dome)
  • Crown at 9 o’clock, engraved with an “M“
  • See-through sapphire crystal case back
Strap
  • Hand-stitched black alligator leather with steel folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo.
Price
  • Price of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F: USD$79,000 (CHF 79,000)

For more information visit the website.

LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie Watch Technical Specifications

Watch Models
  • Ref LM101: Funky Blue fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref LM101: Red fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref LM101: Cosmic Green fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref LM101: Aqua Blue fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces made for retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons)
Movement
  • Three-dimensional horological movement developed inhouse by MB&F
  • Movement aesthetics and finishing specifications: Kari Voutilainen
  • Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
  • Power reserve: 45 hours
  • Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement
  • Balance spring: Straumann® double hairspring
  • Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
  • Number of components: 221
  • Number of jewels: 23
Functions/Indications
  • Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator
  • Large balance wheel suspended above the dial
Case
  • Steel case topped by a high domed sapphire crystal
  • Diameter: 40.0 mm
  • Height: 16 mm
Strap
  • Hand-stitched calfskin strap with steel folding clasp with titanium folding clasp
Price
  • Price of the LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie: USD$52,000 (CHF 53,000)

For more information visit the website.

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New Breitling Top Time Deus Limited Edition Revealed

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Breitling has joined forces with Australian moto/surf lifestyle brand Deus Ex Machina to create the new retro-styled Top Time Deus Limited Edition watch.
The new Breitling Top Time Deus Limited Edition. Credit: Breitling
The new Breitling Top Time Deus Limited Edition. Credit: Breitling

Watchmaker Breitling has joined forces with Australian moto/surf lifestyle brand Deus Ex Machina to create the new Top Time Deus Limited Edition, a retro-themed chronograph inspired by Breitling’s 1960’s Top Time design.

Made for today's "young and active professionals". Credit: Breitling
Made for today’s “young and active professionals”. Credit: Breitling

Originally marketed to “young and active professionals” in the 1960s, Breitling’s Top Time was introduced by Willy Breitling, who wanted a youthful design and something sportier than the dress watches of the day. Now almost half a century later, the same remains true of the Top Time design, and with the latest collaboration between Breitling and Deus Ex Machina, those “young and active professionals” look like surfers, bikers, boarders, and backpackers inspired by the open roads and a thirst for adventure.

Breitling Top Time Deus Limited Edition Lifestyle Dark
Powered by Breitling’s Caliber 23, offering a 48-hour power reserve at a 28,800 bhp beat rate. Credit: Breitling

This time around, the new Breitling Top Time features a 41mm polished stainless steel case on a brown calfskin leather racing strap with a yellow underside. It continues the retro feel with a cream dial signaling the collaboration with a small “Deus” logo in black below the Top Time text and two “squircle” (square + circle) shaped black chronograph counters in the middle, one with a red hand and one with an orange hand.

If you look closely, you’ll also notice Deus Ex Machina’s slogan “In Benzin Veritas” (“in gasoline, truth” or more loosely “in petrol we trust”) inscribed in the black tachymeter bezel around the outside of the dial. A block of orange and yellow also breaks the black at 3 PM and gives it an almost fuel gauge feel.

Look closely and you'll notice the lightning bolt seconds hand and "In benzin veritas". Credit: Breitling
Look closely and you’ll notice the lightning bolt seconds hand and “In benzin veritas”. Credit: Breitling

Another very subtle playful element is the red lightning bolt-shaped central chronograph seconds hand, which the observer at first glance may miss but appears recognizable upon closer inspection.

On the case back, an engraving of Deus Creative director Carby Tuckwell on a retro-looking motorcycle features in the center, with other markings to signify the limited-edition collaboration between Breitling and Deus.

Sketch of Deus Ex Machina creative director Carby Tuckwell featured on the case back. Credit: Breitling
Sketch of Deus Ex Machina creative director Carby Tuckwell featured on the case back. Credit: Breitling

The Breitling Top Time Deus is priced at US$4,990 and is limited to 1,500 models. It is currently available exclusively online and will be available through authorized dealers in late March 2021.

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TAG Heuer & Porsche Officially Join Forces In New Partnership

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TAG Heuer and Porsche have made it official with a new partnership that will see the brands collaborate on a range of joint projects in the future, starting with the new TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph watch.
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Watch. Credit: TAG Heuer
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Watch. Credit: TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer and Porsche have recently announced a new partnership based on their shared love of motorsports and racing, which will begin with the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph release.

While TAG Heuer and Porsche have long crossed paths over the years in various “friend of a friend” circumstances and even shared the name “Carrera” in both automotive and watch models (thanks to the inspiration of the 1950’s Carrera Panamericana road race), this is the first time they’ve made it official.

Porsche detailing on bezel and signature red, black and grey colors. Credit: TAG Heuer
Porsche detailing on bezel and signature red, black and grey colors. Credit: TAG Heuer

The new partnership will see TAG Heuer and Porsche collaborate on a range of joint projects focused on their shared commitment to speed and precision sports, including Formula E, FIA World Endurance Championship, the Porsche TAG Heuer Esports Supercup, golf, and tennis.

The automotive kind of "Carrera". Credit: Porsche/TAG Heuer
The automotive kind of “Carrera”. Credit: Porsche/TAG Heuer

Commenting on the new partnership, new TAG Heuer CEO Frédéric Arnault noted, “TAG Heuer and Porsche have common history and values, of course, but more importantly, we share an attitude. Like Porsche, we are disruptors at heart, always in pursuit of high performance. With this alliance, TAG Heuer and Porsche finally come together officially after decades of close encounters and will create unmatched experiences and products for customers and fans that are passionate about both our brands and what we stand for.”

To kick off the partnership, the brands have created the new TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph special edition, powered by TAG Heuer’s Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic with a power reserve of 80 hours.

TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition with Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic. Credit: TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition with Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic. Credit: TAG Heuer

The watch utilizes a 44mm steel polished case with the tachymeter scale engraved on the ceramic bezel and features Porsche’s red, black and grey colors and either a black calf leather strap with hand stitching, reminiscent of Porsche’s upholstery or a steel H-shape bracelet.

Available with calf leather or polished steel bracelet. Credit: TAG Heuer
Available with calf leather or polished steel bracelet. Credit: TAG Heuer

The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition 44mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic is priced at USD$5,850 and is available online at TAG Heuer.

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H Moser Delivers Final Upgrade of $30,800 Swiss Alp “Smart Watch”

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H Moser is closing out production of their tongue-in-cheek Swiss Alp Watch with one last edition – the “Final Upgrade” with a Vantablack® dial.
The new H Moser Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade. Credit: H Moser & Cie
The new H Moser Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade. Credit: H Moser & Cie

In 2016 Swiss watchmaker H Moser & Cie introduced the world to their very own “smartwatch,” the Swiss Alp Watch, which for all intents and purposes, LOOKED like the ever-popular Apple watch but was powered mechanically.

Smart watch at the front, all mechanical at the back. Credit: H Moser & Cie
Smart watch at the front, all mechanical at the back. Credit: H Moser & Cie

Just over five years later, H Moser & Cie have unveiled their “Final Upgrade,” which was inspired by a customer of the brand and will bring the tongue-in-cheek concept to a close.

“This idea was conceived by a customer and friend of the brand, a true enthusiast and fan of the Swiss Alp Watch collection. He came to visit us with an extremely precise design, and we immediately wanted to create this model, perfectly in line with our philosophy, with a touch of humour and a hint of provocation”, says Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie.

Unmarked dial in Vantablack with black DLC coating on the steel case. Credit: H Moser & Cie
Unmarked dial in Vantablack with black DLC coating on the steel case. Credit: H Moser & Cie

Featuring an unmarked ultra-black dial (created with Vantablack® – the blackest material produced artificially that barely reflects light), H Moser has included a seconds subdial made to represent the spinning/loading icon associated with most Mac products (but thankfully not the colorful spinning wheel of death).

The Swill Alp Watch Final Upgrade is housed in a 38.2mm steel case similar in size to the Apple Watch 6 series and is coated in black DLC with blackened hands and a black alligator leather strap to tie the whole concept together.

Powered by the manually winding HMC 324 movement. Credit: H Moser & Cie
Powered by the manually winding HMC 324 movement. Credit: H Moser & Cie

Powered by its 100% Swiss manufactured HMC 324 manual wind movement, the Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade has a minimum power reserve of 96 hours and, with its mechanical heart, will most likely outlive any smartwatch of its same birth year.

Limited to 50 pieces, the Swiss Alp Final Upgrade is priced at USD$30,800 and available from h-moser.com

H Moser Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade Vantablack Reflection

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