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H.Moser & Cie and MB&F Collaborate To Create Two Special Watches

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Swiss watchmakers H.Moser & Cie and MB&F have joined forces to create special versions of each other’s watch designs: The MB&F inspired H.Moser Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and the H.Moser inspired MB&F LM101.
The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion H.Moser x MB&F (left) and LM1010 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie(right)
The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion H.Moser x MB&F (left) and LM1010 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie(right): MB&F LM101

Swiss watchmakers H.Moser & Cie and MB&F have just announced the release of two new watches and while this may look like a simple “collaboration” from the outside, it has been much more than that for the two passionate watchmaking companies.

In a world where “trade secrets” can often be jealously guarded, two CEO’s wanted a different experience and were open to pooling the skills of their Maisons in the spirit of openness and transparency, and creating something truly unique for each brand through the combining their expertise and DNA.

One CEO is Maximilian Büsser of MB&F, a watchmaker who left his role as CEO at Harry Winston Timepieces in 2005 to create MB&F – a watchmaking laboratory dedicated to art, micromechanical engineering and the design and creation of small editions of exciting watches.

The other is Edouard Meylan, CEO of H.Moser & Cie, who was tasked with turning the company around after his family acquired it in 2013. Originally founded in 1828 by watchmaker Heinrich Moser, the watchmaker’s clients included Russian princes and members of the Russian Imperial Court but it disappeared for many years before being reborn in 2005 with the help of a great-grandson, although it struggled to remain profitable until the MELB Group stepped in with their expertise in watchmaking.

Friends and CEO's - Maximilian Büsser & Edouard Meylan
Friends and CEO’s – Maximilian Büsser & Edouard Meylan

Having worked with H.Moser & Cie for over ten years already (their sister company Precision Engineering AG supplies the balance springs for MB&F watch pieces) Maximilian Büsser initially reached out to his friend Edouard Meylan.

“When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series,” Maximilian Büsser recalled. “Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines. After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50% Indian and 50% Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking? I therefore agreed and suggested the Flying T model, which is particularly dear to my heart.“

The result? Two jointly created H. Moser & Cie x MB&F models that include a unique features used by each watch brand for the first time: the first use of a double hairspring in an MB&F watch and the first use of a cylindrical hairspring in a H.Moser & Cie watch.

Both versions of the watches will be available in several dial color versions, and issued in 15-piece limited series to celebrate the 15th year anniversary of both MB&F and the relaunch of H.Moser & Cie.

The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser x MB&F Watch

The H.Moser Cylindrical Tourbillon could best be described as a mash-up of the H.Moser and Cie Endeavour Concept and MB&F’s Legacy Machine FlyingT.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion with Funky Blue fumé dial.
Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion with Funky Blue fumé dial. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

For H.Moser & Cie’s Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon the watchmakers decided to use the eye-catching “clutter-free” dial of the Endeavour Concept as a starting point, add in their iconic smokey look fumé dials and incorporate MB&F’s distinctive three-dimensional use of movements that sees a one-minute flying tourbillon sitting above the dial at 12’o clock and a sapphire tilted subdial at 6’o’clock. All of which are housed under a large sapphire crystal dome.

Like many of MB&F’s three-dimensional designs, the tilted subdial is designed to be read only by the user and is mounted on a conical gear train ensuring optimal torque transmission from one plane to the other.

Three-dimensional elements enclosed in a sapphire dome.
Three-dimensional elements enclosed in a sapphire dome. Credit: Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

As Edouard Meylan describes it, “We have “Moserized” the MB&F universe by developing a sapphire subdial, which melts into the background so as to highlight the beauty of our fumé dials. And to preserve the purity and elegance of this true work of horological art, we have inscribed our logo like a watermark on the sapphire subdial, thereby underlining the personal character and intimate relationship binding it to its owner”.

For H.Moser & Cie, this also marks the first time the brand has featured a cylindrical hairspring in a watch design. Using the same Precision Engineering AG made cylindrical hairspring as MB&F’s LM Thunderdome, the cylindrical hairspring is reminiscent of a corkscrew, rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff and beating steadily like a heartbeat.

A see-through sapphire subdial with cylindrical hairspring.
A see-through sapphire subdial with cylindrical hairspring. Credit: Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Invented in the 18th century by English watchmaker John Arnold, the cylindrical hairspring was created with the goal to improve isochronism, the ability of the hairspring to maintain constant regardless of movements due to external forces.

By holding the shape of a cylinder and being fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, it reduces the friction at the balance staff’s pivot and greatly improves isochronism.

Limited edition of 15 pieces for each color.
Limited edition of 15 pieces for each color. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Due to its specific shape, the cylindrical hairspring requires more space in a watch design and is extremely difficult to produce, taking ten times longer than a traditional hairspring. With very few companies having the expertise and skill required to produce cylindrical hairsprings, they tend to be produced only in very small numbers for highly exclusive watches.

Limited to 15 pieces of each design, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F is available in 5 different fumé colors: Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue.

The inner workings of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser & Cie x MB&F.
The inner workings of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser & Cie x MB&F.

The LM101 MB&F × H. Moser Watch

Revisiting one of MB&F’s most beloved designs, the Legacy Machine 101 has been given the H.Moser Concept treatment, stripped back to its simplest by the removal of the two floating subdials, logos and engravings on the dial.

The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Red fumé dial.
The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Red fumé dial. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Instead of the original Kari Voutilainen designed dial of the Legacy Machine 101, the LM101 MB&F x H.Moser collaboration watch features the smoked fumé dials of H.Moser & Cie and display the small watch hands directly on the dial, indicating the hours, minutes and the 45-hour power reserve.

The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Cosmic Green fumé dial.
The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Cosmic Green fumé dial. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Like the original LM101, the suspended flying balance wheel is the star of the show although it has been completely redesigned for this new edition and features a Straumann® double balance spring for the first time in an MB&F watch.

Made with 221 individual components.
Made with 221 individual components. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

By utilizing a pair of matching balance hairsprings, one turning clockwise and the other anti-clockwise, the displacement of the point of gravity undergone by each hairspring as it expands is corrected, significantly improving precision and isochronism. In addition, the paired balance springs also reduce the friction effect normally encountered with a single balance spring, resulting in optimized isochronism.

The eye-catching suspended "flying" balance wheel of the Legacy Machine 101.
The eye-catching suspended “flying” balance wheel of the Legacy Machine 101. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Available in four different fumé dial colors: Red fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Aqua Blue fumé and, Funky Blue fumé, the LM101 features a steel case (only the third time an MB&F watch has been made in steel) and will be limited to 15 pieces of each color.

Steel case with hand-stitched calfskin leather strap.
Steel case with hand-stitched calfskin leather strap. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser x MB&F Watch Technical Specifications

Watch Models
  • Ref 1810-1200: Funky Blue fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1201: Burgundy fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1202: Cosmic Green fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1203: Off-White fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1204: Ice Blue fumé with sunburst pattern (limited to 15 pieces)
Movement
  • HMC 810 three-dimensional automatic Manufacture calibre
  • Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
  • Height: 5.5 mm
  • Balance Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
  • Number of jewels: 29
  • Number of components: 184
  • Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
  • Oscillating weight in 18-carat gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo
  • Power reserve: minimum 72 hours
  • Cylindrical hairspring
  • One-minute flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock with skeletonised bridges
Functions/Indications
  • Hours and the minutes displayed on a 40° vertically tilted sapphire dial at 6 o’clock
  • Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands
Case
  • Steel case topped by a high domed sapphire crystal
  • Diameter: 42.0 mm
  • Height: 19.5 mm (9.4mm without crystal sapphire dome)
  • Crown at 9 o’clock, engraved with an “M“
  • See-through sapphire crystal case back
Strap
  • Hand-stitched black alligator leather with steel folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo.
Price
  • Price of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F: USD$79,000 (CHF 79,000)

For more information visit the website.

LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie Watch Technical Specifications

Watch Models
  • Ref LM101: Funky Blue fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref LM101: Red fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref LM101: Cosmic Green fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref LM101: Aqua Blue fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces made for retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons)
Movement
  • Three-dimensional horological movement developed inhouse by MB&F
  • Movement aesthetics and finishing specifications: Kari Voutilainen
  • Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
  • Power reserve: 45 hours
  • Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement
  • Balance spring: Straumann® double hairspring
  • Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
  • Number of components: 221
  • Number of jewels: 23
Functions/Indications
  • Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator
  • Large balance wheel suspended above the dial
Case
  • Steel case topped by a high domed sapphire crystal
  • Diameter: 40.0 mm
  • Height: 16 mm
Strap
  • Hand-stitched calfskin strap with steel folding clasp with titanium folding clasp
Price
  • Price of the LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie: USD$52,000 (CHF 53,000)

For more information visit the website.

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Audemars Piguet’s Frosted Gold Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon Revealed

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Swiss watchmaker Audemars Piguet has revealed the newest Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon featuring a frosted white and rose gold finish.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted White Gold Flying Tourbillon Duo
The Audemars Piguet Frosted Gold Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon. Credit: AP

Audemars Piguet’s newest Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillion has been revealed and features a clean circular design that draws the eye inward to the diamond-encrusted flying tourbillon cage.

The latest in the “Royal Oak Concept” range, this is a smaller design compared to the majority of the oversized Royal Oak Concept men’s watches and is the first time it has been offered with a frosted case.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Rose Gold Flying Tourbillon Watch Face
Frosted and satin-brushed case with alligator strap. Credit: AP

While the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept has been around since 2002, it wasn’t until 2018 that a flying tourbillon was introduced to the range. Suspended from underneath, the flying tourbillon doesn’t require an overhead bridge and facilitates a slimmer design.

Available in either 18ct pink gold or white gold, the latest edition revisits the frosted look first introduced in 2016 through the collaboration with Italian jewelry designer Carolina Bucci.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Rose Gold Flying Tourbillon Watch Dial
Radial brushed circles in sunburst blue and 18ct pink gold edging. Credit: AP

Using a decorative Florentine technique of “frosting,” a diamond-tipped tool is used to hammer thousands of tiny indentations into the metal that creates a sparkling effect as though it were precious stones or “diamond dust.”

To maintain a clean and unfettered view of the mesmerizing dial, no hour markers have been included. Still, the two small semi-skeletonized luminescent hands allow the wearer to quickly tell the time at a glance.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted White Gold Flying Tourbillon Watch Side Details
Audemars Piguet Frosted Gold Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon in white gold. Credit: AP

Taking a look closer inside the 38.5mm frosted and satin-brushed case, the watch face consists of a sunburst blue multi-layered dial with four concentric ovals stepping down towards the diamond encrusted flying tourbillon cage positioned at 6 o’clock.

Compared to previous frosted Royal Oak editions powered by the automatic caliber 3120 and caliber 2713 quartz movements, the new Frosted Royal Oak Concept has a 72-hour power reserve and is powered by Audemars Piguet’s caliber 2964 with a hand-wound flying tourbillon, a design only a few expert watchmakers have the necessary skill to create.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted White Gold Flying Tourbillon Watch Dial
Diamond encrusted Flying Tourbillon with matching concentric circles. Credit: AP

Both editions are available on either a blue “large square-scale” alligator strap or a blue textured rubber strap with a constellation motif.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted White Gold Flying Tourbillon Watch Case Back
Royal Oak Concept caseback. Credit: AP

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon 38.5 mm

Ref: 26630OR.GG.D326CR.01 (pink gold)
Ref: 26630BC.GG.D326CR.01 (white gold)

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Material: 18 pink or white gold with hammered finish
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 20 m

Movement: Cal. 2964
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon regulator
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Blue alligator with pink gold folding clasp

Availability: Only at boutiques
Price: CHF 145,000 (USD$159,000)

For more information, visit Audemarspiguet.com

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Jacob & Co Reveals One-Off Billionaire ASHOKA Diamond Watch

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Jacob & Co’s Billionaire ASHOKA Watch features over 189 carats of ASHOKA cut diamonds and will be the only one ever made.
Jacob & Co Billionaire Ashoka Diamond Watch
The Jacob & Co Billionaire ASHOKA diamond watch. Credit: Jacob & Co

New York based jeweler and watchmaker Jacob & Co are renowned for show-stopping timepieces and none more so than the new Billionaire ASHOKA.

Created as an updated version of Jacob & Co’s first Billionaire watch first introduced in 2015 at Baselworld and created in collaboration with Flavio Briatore of Billionaire Lifestyle SARL, the Billionaire ASHOKA instead features unique proprietary cut ASHOKA diamonds from William Goldberg.

Named after one of India’s greatest third-century emporer’s, King Ashoka Maurya, an ASHOKA cut diamond is a rectangular shape with rounded corners and 62 precisely-cut facets that make the diamond appear 30% larger than an emerald cut diamond of the same weight.

Enclosing the 18-carat white gold case and skeletonized caliber entirely in the ASHOKA diamonds, the Billionaire ASHOKA watch has a total carat weight of 189 pieces. It is powered by the JCAM09 caliber tourbillon movement created by Jacon & Co’s Swiss-based watchmakers, giving it 72 hours of power reserve.

Due to the precise cut of the ASHOKA diamond, less than 1% off all rough diamonds are even eligible to be considered, making the Billionaire ASHOKA extremely unique. Jacob & Co have explicitly stated they will only be producing one limited edition of this watch.

While no prices have been released yet as a ballpark figure, Floyd Mayweather reportedly purchased the original Billionaire watch for $18 million in 2018.

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The New $520,000 Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton

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The new Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton features a triple-axis tourbillon movement for the first time in the brand’s popular Vanguard case.
Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Watch
The new Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Watch. Credit: Franck Muller

For fans of Franck Muller’s triple-axis tourbillon movement and the Vanguard watch shape – this is for you. For the first time, the Swiss watchmaker has revealed the Revolution 3 triple-axis tourbillon movement in its popular Vanguard case.

Founded in 1991 by master watchmaker Franck Muller and a watchmaking specialist and entrepreneur Vartan Simarkes, the House of Franck Muller is known for its highly technical complications and innovations, produced in-house at Genthod, Geneva.

One particular innovation is the “Triple Axis Tourbillon” first created in 2004 which was the world’s first tri-axial tourbillon, designed to correct the forces of gravity in all positions (contrary to a classic one which only compensates when the wristwatch is in a vertical position ie, Franck Muller Revolution 1, or the double-axis tourbillon in Revolution 2).

Previously Franck Muller has debuted the triple-axis tourbillon in the iconic Cintrée Curvex case, easily identifiable by its perfectly curved tonneau body and known as the Cintrée Curvex Revolution 3 model.

For the first time, the triple-axis tourbillon “Revolution 3” has now been released in Franck Muller’s more sporty looking Vanguard case, designed to cleverly integrate the strap inside the case to retain the smooth curves of the watch.

Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Watch Front View
Featuring a titanium case with Alcantara® strap. Credit: Franck Muller

Featuring an eye-catching skeleton movement, the Vanguard Revolution 3’s large sapphire dome case allows viewers to see the inner-workings and watch as the triple-axis tourbillon works effortlessly to correct the force of gravity in all positions.

Dominating the lower half of the movement, the triple-axis tourbillon slowly turns through the one-hour, eight-minute, and 60-second cycles of its respective three carriages.

Power flows from the gear train through all three carriages to activate the balance wheel five times each second. As the Revolution 3 has three carriages, the gear train has significant resistance to overcome. To provide an abundance of energy to drive this triple-axis tourbillon, the movement has a massive ten days of power reserve.

There are also two retrograde indications at 4 and 8 o’clock for the progression of the eight-minute carriage and the 60-second carriage.

The Vanguard case itself is made of grade-2 titanium and has been treated with black PVD coating. In contrast, the bright red strap features Alcantara® (a material popular with supercar interiors like those of Lamborghini), which effortlessly takes the shape of the wrist and complements the red detailing on the movement and the Vanguard case.

Price for the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Watch is CHF 480,000 excluding taxes (approx US$520,000) with first deliveries scheduled from September 2020.

Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Watch Trio

Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Technical Specifications

Watch Reference
  • V 50 REV 3 SQT NR BR (ER)
Case
  • Vanguard case
  • Grade-2 titanium with back PVD treatment
  • Hand Brushed
  • Red inserts on both sides of the case
  • Width: 46 mm x Length: 55.9 mm x Thickness: 13.7 mm
  • Sapphire crystal with two domes on the front and back
  • Water resistant up to 30 meters
Functions
  • Hours, Minutes, Triple Axis Tourbillon, Power reserve at 12 o’clock, Carriages progression indicators at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock
Instructions
  • Winding shaft with 2 positions: 1.Winding. 2.Time setting
Movement
  • Manual winding movement
  • Power reserve of 10 days
  • 359 components
  • 36 rubies
  • Width: 34.30 mm. Length: 40.30 mm. Thickness: 9.65 mm
  • Balance wheel frequency set at 18,000 alternations per hour
  • Rotation of the first cage in 1 minute
  • Rotation of the second cage in 8 minutes
  • Rotation of the third cage in 1 hour
  • Skeleton Movement
Movement Decoration
  • Microbillage and hand chamfering on the main plate and the tourbillon cage
  • Circular graining on the wheels
  • Red anodization of the tourbillon cage and indicators
Strap & Buckle
  • Hand sewn red Alcantara® strap
  • Grade-2 titanium folding buckle
  • Hand brushed
Price
  • CHF 480,000 excluding taxes

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