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Patek Philippe’s First Watch For 2020: The Stainless Steel Calatrava 6007A-001

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The Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Calatrava 6007A-001 is a limited edition designed to celebrate the brand’s new $600 million headquarters in Geneva.
Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Limited Edition 6007A-001. Credit: Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Calatrava Limited Edition 6007A-001. Credit: Patek Philippe

Like many industries affected by the ongoing ramifications of COVID-19, the watch industry took a brief pause earlier this year with the subsequent cancellation of major watch shows. While some brands chose to move forward with virtual releases, others like Patek Philippe remained quiet on any new releases.

Now halfway through the year, the Swiss watchmaker has come forward with their first new design for 2020 – a limited edition stainless steel Calatrava created as a celebration of the completion of the brand’s new 10 story headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva.

Patek Philippe Headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. Credit: Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. Credit: Patek Philippe

In keeping with the tradition of releasing a limited-edition commemorative watch to celebrate key events in Patek Philippe’s history, the 6007A-001 Calatrava pays tribute to the completion of the flagship building that not only brings all of the craftsman, suppliers and workshop under the one roof but includes a 299 seat auditorium and a restaurant for 880 patrons on the top floor.

A tribute to the completion of the new headquarters. Credit: Patek Philippe
A tribute to the completion of the new headquarters. Credit: Patek Philippe

With the Calatrava’s classic round watch face having been a staple dress watch for the brand since 1932, the latest edition Calatrava features a case and broad cambered bezel in polished steel (a rarity in itself for Patek Philippe) and is a 40mm time-and-date model with a grey-blue dial and a latticed “carbon-fiber” design at the center of the dial.

Patek Philippe's first release for 2020 - The Stainless Steel Calatrava. Credit: Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe’s first release for 2020 – The Stainless Steel Calatrava. Credit: Patek Philippe

The concentric circular design of the watch face begins with the inner minute railway scale surrounding the “carbon fiber” design, followed by the white Arabic numbers with a luminous coating indicating the hours and finally the 5-minute circle on the outer.

Luminous numerals and watch hands come in handy in low-light. Credit: Patek Philippe
Luminous numerals and watch hands come in handy in low-light. Credit: Patek Philippe

Powered by a self-winding caliber 324 S C movement, the limited edition is also recognizable by the specially marked sapphire-crystal case back with the Calatrava cross and “New Manufacture 2019” inscribed on the back, to represent the year that Patek Philippe’s workforce moved into the new headquarters.

Caseback inscribed with "New Manufacture 2019". Credit: Patek Philippe
Caseback inscribed with “New Manufacture 2019”. Credit: Patek Philippe

Limited to 1000 pieces, the Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 is priced at USD $28,351 and comes with a steel-grey colored calfskin strap with white decorative stitching and a prong buckle.

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Parmigiani Fleurier Reveals New Sporty Tonda GT Range

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Parmigiani Fleurier’s new sporty look Tonda GT range has been designed for everyday wear for the modern gentleman. 
Parmigiani Fleurier's new sporty Tonda GT range revealed. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier’s new sporty Tonda GT Rose Gold on Blue Rubber Strap. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier

Founded in 1996 by Michel Parmigiani, Parmigiani Fleurier is a boutique watchmaker based in Switzerland that started as a restoration workshop and has since gone on to design some of the world’s most complicated timepieces.

Following on from the Tonda 1950 (created to celebrate the birth year of founder Michel Parmigiani) and the Tonda Double Tourbillion, now comes the new sporty Tonda GT range consisting of three new designs in either stainless steel or 18-ct rose gold. 

Parmigiani Fleurier's new sporty Tonda GT range revealed. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier reveals three new Tonda GT designs. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier

Inspired by the Tonda Chronor watch, a design awarded the Chronograph Watch Prize from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve in 2017, the Tonda GT’s round case has been designed in collaboration with Dino Modolo. For the first time in a Tonda design, the case also features a fluted bezel like those seen in the pricier Parmigiani Fleurier Toric collection.

Tondagraph GT Steel with steel bracelet. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier
Tondagraph GT Steel with steel bracelet. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier

Described as a timepiece designed to be worn every day by the “modern gentleman,” the Tondagraph GT is powered by the PF043 automatic caliber movement and, in a rather uncommon combination, includes both an annual calendar and a chronograph.

Fluted bezel inspired by the Toric collection. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier
Fluted bezel inspired by the Toric collection. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier

Displaying a wealth of information on the dial, the Tondagraph GT’s skeletonized hands with black luminescent coating indicate the hours and minutes, while two small subdials display the chronograph function, and a big date aperture at 12 o’clock. To draw attention to the annual calendar function, the date and month are displayed in a vibrant orange color. 

The two additional Tonda GT models, the Tonda GT Steel and Tonda GT Rose Gold, are powered by the PF044 automatic movement with a power reserve of 45 hours. Each of the watches is water-resistant to 100m and features a delicate “clou triangulaire” guilloche engraved pattern across the dial with a big date aperture at 12 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. 

Tonda GT Steel on rubber strap. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier
Tonda GT Steel on rubber strap. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier

Designed as a casual dress watch that can easily transition from day to evening wear, both the Tondagraph GT Steel and Tonda GT watches are available on either a matching metal bracelet or rubber strap.

“This is yet another step forward for Parmigiani Fleurier as it continues to evolve and innovate,” says Davide Traxler, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier. “The new Tonda GT line, with its more casual shape and attractive price point, reflects current market needs and is, at the same time, distinctively Parmigiani.”   

Technical Specs & Price:

Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier

Model: Tonda GT/Tondagraph GT 

Case/Dial: 42mm diameter x 11.2mm height, polished steel/ 18k rose gold, clou triangulaire guilloché dial

Water Resistance: 100m

Movement: Calibre PF044 (Tonda GT), Calibre PF043 (Tondagraph GT)  

Power Reserve: 45h

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds

Strap: Metal bracelet / Rubber Strap

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT range is available for pre-order with delivery scheduled for August (Tonda GT Rose Gold bracelet only available in September).

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Watch Prices

– Tonda GT Steel (limited to 250 pieces)

  • on rubber strap: US$13,500 (Ref: PFC910-0000210-X01482)
  • on bracelet: US$14,500 (Ref: PFC910-0000210-B00182)
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Steel Bracelet Dial
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Steel Bracelet. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier

– Tondagraph GT Steel (limited to 200 pieces)

  • on rubber strap: US$18,500 (Ref: PFC906-0000210-X01482)
  • on bracelet: US$19,500 (Ref: PFC906-0000210-B00182)
Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Steel Bracelet Dial. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Steel Bracelet. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier

– Tonda GT Rose (limited to 150 pieces)

  • on gold bracelet: US$49,500 (Ref: PFC910-1500340-B00782)
  • on rubber strap: US$24,900 (Ref: PFC910-1500340-X03182)
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Rose Gold Blue Rubber Strap
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Rose Gold with rubber strap. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier

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Rolls-Royce x Franck Muller “Crazy Numbers” Wraith Black Badge and Watch Collab Revealed

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Rolls-Royce Geneva and Swiss luxury watchmaker Franck Muller have recently joined forces to design two new creations: The Wraith Black Badge Inspired Crazy Hours Watch and an upcoming Wraith Black Badge “Crazy Numbers.”
Franck Muller Rolls Royce Crazy Numbers Wraith Black Badge Partnership

Sharing a passion for excellence, Rolls-Royce Geneva and Swiss luxury watchmaker Franck Muller have joined forces to design two new creations: The Wraith Black Badge “Crazy Numbers” and the Wraith Black Badge inspired “Crazy Hours” watch.

Or to put it another way – Rolls-Royce Geneva will customize a special Black Badge edition of the Wraith to reflect elements of Franck Muller’s Crazy Hours watch, and Franck Muller is creating a Wraith Black Badge inspired version of the watch.

Benefitting from the expertise of the Rolls-Royce’s “Bespoke Programme,” the Rolls-Royce Geneva “Crazy Numbers” Wraith Black Badge is an artistic demonstration of the extreme personalization that can be achieved and will see elements of Franck Muller’s iconic Crazy Hours watch intertwined throughout the vehicle design.

Featuring a special Velvet Sparkle exterior finish with a Twin-Coachline motif in Silver/Cobalto Blue mirroring the Crazy Numbers theme, the special Wraith edition will feature a deep Cobalto Blue interior and a unique dashboard fascia and embroidered “Crazy Hours” numbers on the rear console. Overhead the Starlight Headliner will also depict the “Crazy Hours” watch face.

Franck Muller Rolls-Royce Wraith Black Badge Crazy Hours
Rear console embroidery inspired by Franck Muller “Crazy Hours” watch. Credit: Rolls-Royce Geneva

Sharing on the customization options of the special edition Matt Danton, Bespoke Designer at Rolls-Royce, commented, “Distinction, leadership and genuine expression is at the heart of the Bespoke Programme. The car is regarded as a key element of one’s taste and personal style, so it’s only natural it’s bespoke.”

Franck Muller Rolls-Royce Wraith Black Badge Crazy Numbers
Custom dashboard fascia inspired by Franck Muller “Crazy Hours” watch. Credit: Rolls-Royce Geneva

As yet, Rolls-Royce has only provided teaser images of the upcoming edition; however production of Wraith Black Badge “Crazy Numbers” is set to commence shortly with the actual motor car presented in the 4th quarter of 2020.

To celebrate the partnership, Franck Muller has also created two unique versions of the Crazy Hours watch. Featuring the same Cobalto Blue color scheme as the vehicle, one watch has a black dial with a Cobalto Blue case and black leather strap, while the other is a reverse combination with a Cobalto Blue dial, black case and blue strap.

Two versions of the Franck Muller Crazy Hours Wraith Black Badge Edition. Credit: Franck Muller
Two versions of the Franck Muller Crazy Hours Wraith Black Badge Edition. Credit: Franck Muller

“We are thrilled to be partnering with the world’s finest car manufacturer to produce this bespoke car and this exclusive watch collection,” says Nicholas Rudaz, director of Franck Muller Watchland. “To see our exceptional know-how of haute-horlogerie be interpreted into such an exclusive car has been a fascinating experience.”

For the uninitiated, the Franck Muller Crazy Hour watch is a self-winding watch with a 42-hour power reserve that displays the watch numbers in a very unconventional order and, at first glance, reminds one of something the Mad Hatter would wear to his next tea party.

Using its patented Crazy Hours mechanism, the central hour hand jumps to the correct hour number (one to twelve) even though the numbers are not in the standard order. Meanwhile, the minute hand continues to follow a conventional pattern and revolves around the dial on a 60-minute cycle.

As yet, pricing has not been announced for the Franck Muller Wraith Inspired Crazy Hours watch or the Rolls-Royce Wraith Black Badge “Crazy Numbers.”

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H.Moser & Cie and MB&F Collaborate To Create Two Special Watches

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Swiss watchmakers H.Moser & Cie and MB&F have joined forces to create special versions of each other’s watch designs: The MB&F inspired H.Moser Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and the H.Moser inspired MB&F LM101.
The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion H.Moser x MB&F (left) and LM1010 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie(right)
The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion H.Moser x MB&F (left) and LM1010 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie(right): MB&F LM101

Swiss watchmakers H.Moser & Cie and MB&F have just announced the release of two new watches and while this may look like a simple “collaboration” from the outside, it has been much more than that for the two passionate watchmaking companies.

In a world where “trade secrets” can often be jealously guarded, two CEO’s wanted a different experience and were open to pooling the skills of their Maisons in the spirit of openness and transparency, and creating something truly unique for each brand through the combining their expertise and DNA.

One CEO is Maximilian Büsser of MB&F, a watchmaker who left his role as CEO at Harry Winston Timepieces in 2005 to create MB&F – a watchmaking laboratory dedicated to art, micromechanical engineering and the design and creation of small editions of exciting watches.

The other is Edouard Meylan, CEO of H.Moser & Cie, who was tasked with turning the company around after his family acquired it in 2013. Originally founded in 1828 by watchmaker Heinrich Moser, the watchmaker’s clients included Russian princes and members of the Russian Imperial Court but it disappeared for many years before being reborn in 2005 with the help of a great-grandson, although it struggled to remain profitable until the MELB Group stepped in with their expertise in watchmaking.

Friends and CEO's - Maximilian Büsser & Edouard Meylan
Friends and CEO’s – Maximilian Büsser & Edouard Meylan

Having worked with H.Moser & Cie for over ten years already (their sister company Precision Engineering AG supplies the balance springs for MB&F watch pieces) Maximilian Büsser initially reached out to his friend Edouard Meylan.

“When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series,” Maximilian Büsser recalled. “Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines. After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50% Indian and 50% Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking? I therefore agreed and suggested the Flying T model, which is particularly dear to my heart.“

The result? Two jointly created H. Moser & Cie x MB&F models that include a unique features used by each watch brand for the first time: the first use of a double hairspring in an MB&F watch and the first use of a cylindrical hairspring in a H.Moser & Cie watch.

Both versions of the watches will be available in several dial color versions, and issued in 15-piece limited series to celebrate the 15th year anniversary of both MB&F and the relaunch of H.Moser & Cie.

The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser x MB&F Watch

The H.Moser Cylindrical Tourbillon could best be described as a mash-up of the H.Moser and Cie Endeavour Concept and MB&F’s Legacy Machine FlyingT.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion with Funky Blue fumé dial.
Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion with Funky Blue fumé dial. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

For H.Moser & Cie’s Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon the watchmakers decided to use the eye-catching “clutter-free” dial of the Endeavour Concept as a starting point, add in their iconic smokey look fumé dials and incorporate MB&F’s distinctive three-dimensional use of movements that sees a one-minute flying tourbillon sitting above the dial at 12’o clock and a sapphire tilted subdial at 6’o’clock. All of which are housed under a large sapphire crystal dome.

Like many of MB&F’s three-dimensional designs, the tilted subdial is designed to be read only by the user and is mounted on a conical gear train ensuring optimal torque transmission from one plane to the other.

Three-dimensional elements enclosed in a sapphire dome.
Three-dimensional elements enclosed in a sapphire dome. Credit: Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

As Edouard Meylan describes it, “We have “Moserized” the MB&F universe by developing a sapphire subdial, which melts into the background so as to highlight the beauty of our fumé dials. And to preserve the purity and elegance of this true work of horological art, we have inscribed our logo like a watermark on the sapphire subdial, thereby underlining the personal character and intimate relationship binding it to its owner”.

For H.Moser & Cie, this also marks the first time the brand has featured a cylindrical hairspring in a watch design. Using the same Precision Engineering AG made cylindrical hairspring as MB&F’s LM Thunderdome, the cylindrical hairspring is reminiscent of a corkscrew, rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff and beating steadily like a heartbeat.

A see-through sapphire subdial with cylindrical hairspring.
A see-through sapphire subdial with cylindrical hairspring. Credit: Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Invented in the 18th century by English watchmaker John Arnold, the cylindrical hairspring was created with the goal to improve isochronism, the ability of the hairspring to maintain constant regardless of movements due to external forces.

By holding the shape of a cylinder and being fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, it reduces the friction at the balance staff’s pivot and greatly improves isochronism.

Limited edition of 15 pieces for each color.
Limited edition of 15 pieces for each color. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Due to its specific shape, the cylindrical hairspring requires more space in a watch design and is extremely difficult to produce, taking ten times longer than a traditional hairspring. With very few companies having the expertise and skill required to produce cylindrical hairsprings, they tend to be produced only in very small numbers for highly exclusive watches.

Limited to 15 pieces of each design, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F is available in 5 different fumé colors: Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue.

The inner workings of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser & Cie x MB&F.
The inner workings of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser & Cie x MB&F.

The LM101 MB&F × H. Moser Watch

Revisiting one of MB&F’s most beloved designs, the Legacy Machine 101 has been given the H.Moser Concept treatment, stripped back to its simplest by the removal of the two floating subdials, logos and engravings on the dial.

The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Red fumé dial.
The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Red fumé dial. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Instead of the original Kari Voutilainen designed dial of the Legacy Machine 101, the LM101 MB&F x H.Moser collaboration watch features the smoked fumé dials of H.Moser & Cie and display the small watch hands directly on the dial, indicating the hours, minutes and the 45-hour power reserve.

The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Cosmic Green fumé dial.
The LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie with Cosmic Green fumé dial. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Like the original LM101, the suspended flying balance wheel is the star of the show although it has been completely redesigned for this new edition and features a Straumann® double balance spring for the first time in an MB&F watch.

Made with 221 individual components.
Made with 221 individual components. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

By utilizing a pair of matching balance hairsprings, one turning clockwise and the other anti-clockwise, the displacement of the point of gravity undergone by each hairspring as it expands is corrected, significantly improving precision and isochronism. In addition, the paired balance springs also reduce the friction effect normally encountered with a single balance spring, resulting in optimized isochronism.

The eye-catching suspended "flying" balance wheel of the Legacy Machine 101.
The eye-catching suspended “flying” balance wheel of the Legacy Machine 101. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Available in four different fumé dial colors: Red fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Aqua Blue fumé and, Funky Blue fumé, the LM101 features a steel case (only the third time an MB&F watch has been made in steel) and will be limited to 15 pieces of each color.

Steel case with hand-stitched calfskin leather strap.
Steel case with hand-stitched calfskin leather strap. Credit: MB&F/H.Moser & Cie

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H.Moser x MB&F Watch Technical Specifications

Watch Models
  • Ref 1810-1200: Funky Blue fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1201: Burgundy fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1202: Cosmic Green fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1203: Off-White fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref 1810-1204: Ice Blue fumé with sunburst pattern (limited to 15 pieces)
Movement
  • HMC 810 three-dimensional automatic Manufacture calibre
  • Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
  • Height: 5.5 mm
  • Balance Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
  • Number of jewels: 29
  • Number of components: 184
  • Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
  • Oscillating weight in 18-carat gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo
  • Power reserve: minimum 72 hours
  • Cylindrical hairspring
  • One-minute flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock with skeletonised bridges
Functions/Indications
  • Hours and the minutes displayed on a 40° vertically tilted sapphire dial at 6 o’clock
  • Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands
Case
  • Steel case topped by a high domed sapphire crystal
  • Diameter: 42.0 mm
  • Height: 19.5 mm (9.4mm without crystal sapphire dome)
  • Crown at 9 o’clock, engraved with an “M“
  • See-through sapphire crystal case back
Strap
  • Hand-stitched black alligator leather with steel folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo.
Price
  • Price of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F: USD$79,000 (CHF 79,000)

For more information visit the website.

LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie Watch Technical Specifications

Watch Models
  • Ref LM101: Funky Blue fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref LM101: Red fumé dial edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref LM101: Cosmic Green fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces)
  • Ref LM101: Aqua Blue fumé edition (limited to 15 pieces made for retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons)
Movement
  • Three-dimensional horological movement developed inhouse by MB&F
  • Movement aesthetics and finishing specifications: Kari Voutilainen
  • Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
  • Power reserve: 45 hours
  • Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement
  • Balance spring: Straumann® double hairspring
  • Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
  • Number of components: 221
  • Number of jewels: 23
Functions/Indications
  • Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator
  • Large balance wheel suspended above the dial
Case
  • Steel case topped by a high domed sapphire crystal
  • Diameter: 40.0 mm
  • Height: 16 mm
Strap
  • Hand-stitched calfskin strap with steel folding clasp with titanium folding clasp
Price
  • Price of the LM101 MB&F x H.Moser & Cie: USD$52,000 (CHF 53,000)

For more information visit the website.

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