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The MB&F HM10 Bulldog Watch is Man’s Best Friend in Horological Form

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Maximilian Büsser and friends have once again joined forces to create a new Horological Machine – the canine inspired MB&F HM10 ‘Bulldog’ watch.

The new MB&F HM10 Bulldog is the latest to join the ranks of the brand’s eclectic lineup and those with a soft spot for a British bulldog in all its slobbering wide-jawed youthfulness will no doubt be enamoured with this same friendly beast with its “big eyes”, metal jaws and giant clockwork heart.

Released as two different editions, the Bulldog is offered as the CHF 106,000 grade 5 titanium version with blue “eyes” and blue calf-leather strap or the 18k red-gold version with black “eyes” and brown calf-leather strap priced at CHF 121,000.

The MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ in Red Gold & Titanium. Credit MB&F
The MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ in Red Gold & Titanium. Credit: MB&F

If you are familiar with any of MB&F’s previous critter inspired creations like the Horological Machine N°3 ‘Frog’ or the Horological Machine N°7 ‘Aquapod’, it will come as no surprise to see this latest design come bounding from the workshop floor of the self-confessed dog loving founder.

The entirety of the watch concept came to MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser in 2015 while on a bus trip to the Narita airport in Tokyo, Japan.

Founder of MB&F - Maximilian Büsser. Credit: Hung @ H5 Production
Founder of MB&F – Maximilian Büsser. Credit: Hung @ H5 Production

“I was dozing away and suddenly I see this piece” says Büsser, “what you see now in front of you is more or less exactly what I saw at the time and it was the first time I actually saw a watch in my mind, just like that!”.

That design is the MB&F HM10 Bulldog, a manual-winding watch made up of 301 individual components created by the talented individuals that make up the friends part of MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends). The Bulldog’s “body” is a compact rounded case made of either titanium or red gold that extends into the short sprung strap “legs” connecting it to the calf-leather strap that wraps firmly around the wrist. On either side of the body, two studded-collar like crowns allow the owner to wind the mainspring or set the time, while inside the head, two revolving time-telling eyes peer out as if waiting at the front gate for the postman.

The MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ in grade 5 Titanium. Credit MB&F
The MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ in grade 5 Titanium. Credit: MB&F

Also enclosed is the “heart” of the Bulldog, an eye-catching balance, suspended beneath the central sapphire crystal dome and beating at the traditional cadence of 2.5Hz (18,000vph). The mechanism first appeared in MB&F’s designs in 2011 as the Legacy Machine N°1 and has since become somewhat synonymous with MB&F, appearing in the majority of Legacy Machines, Horological Machine N°9, and now HM10 Bulldog.

Playing up to its brutish nature, you’ll find it hard to miss the external hinged jaws that look ready to snap shut in an instant but in reality serve a much more playful purpose. If you look closely you’ll notice that the jaws open and shut according to the amount of wind left in the watch’s mainspring – when the Bulldog’s jaws are wide open and you can see both rows of teeth, it’s fully charged and ready to play for 45 hours but when the mouth is closed it means the Bulldog has expended all energy and is in need of a nap (and re-winding).

The Bulldog’s Jaws Open & Closed. Credit: MB&F

Like other MB&F creations, the Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ is purposely created so that the time indication and power reserve display are visible only by the wearer.

There is one last “only for the owner” detail that will remain hidden to most eyes unless specifically pointed out – a small inscription found engraved on the caseback that reads: ““Forget the dog, beware of the owner”.

"Forget the dog, beware of the owner". Credit: MB&F
“Forget the dog, beware of the owner”. Credit: MB&F
MB&F HM10 Bulldog Price & Details
  • MB&F HM10 Bulldog 18K Red Gold Price:  CHF 121,000
  • MB&F HM10 Bulldog Titanium Price: CHF 106,000
Engine
  • Manual-winding in-house movement
  • Bespoke flying 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the domed dials
  • Super-LumiNova on the hour and minute domes and markers
  • Balance Frequency: 2.5Hz (18,000bph)
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours
  • Number of components: 301 components
  • Number of jewels: 34
  • Two crowns: Left crown at 11 o’clock for winding; right crown at 1 o’clock for setting the time
Functions & Indications
  • Hours on left dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours)
  • Minutes on right dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes)
  • Power reserve indicated in 3D by the opening and closing of the jaws (closed jaws means it needs re-winding).
Case
  • Version Ti: grade 5 titanium
  • Version RT: 18k 5N+ red gold and grade 5 titanium
  • Dimensions: 54mm x 45mm x 24mm
  • Water resistant to 5ATM / 50m / 160ft
Strap and buckle
  • RT version: hand-stitched brown calf-leather strap with custom-designed red gold folding buckle.
  • Ti version: hand-stitched blue calf-leather strap with Velcro system and titanium buckle.

Lifestyle

Jaeger-LeCoultre Celebrates 90th Anniversary of the Reverso Watch

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Luxury watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre has celebrated 90 years of the Reverso watch with a special 90th-anniversary edition and a luxury coffee table book from Assouline.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano celebrates 90 years of the Reverso. Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano celebrates 90 years of the Reverso. Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre

Initially created at the height of the Art Deco period, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s iconic Reverso watch was created in 1931 for “sporting gentlemen” (specifically polo players) and designed with a reversible case to protect the glass face from physical contact.

Now 90 years on and well over 50 different calibers and hundreds of dials later, Jaeger-Coultre are celebrating the watches 90th anniversary with a special anniversary edition and a luxury coffee table book produced in collaboration with luxury publisher Assouline.

New Assouline luxury coffee table book pays tribute to the Reverso. Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
New Assouline luxury coffee table book pays tribute to the Reverso. Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre

Detailing the colorful history of one of the world’s most recognizable watches, horological historian Nicholas Foulkes tells the fascinating story of the founders of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Reverso’s evolution over the last nine decades, and explores the stories of over a dozen Reverso owners.

Reverso Assouline Book Turning Book
Reverso Assouline Book Turning Book Jewels

For watch owners wanting to join the celebrations, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 90th-anniversary edition watch features a burgundy-red dial on one side (inspired by the early use of color in Reverso’s) and a silver-colored circular design with Clous de Paris guilloche on the reverse, all housed in a with and pink gold case with an original strap designed by Casa Fagliano, the world-famous Argentinian maker of polo boots.

Dual-time zone with burgundy-red and white guilloche engraved faces. Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Dual-time zone with burgundy-red and white guilloche engraved faces. Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre

Combining the dual-time zone complication of the Duoface with the simplicity of the Tribute collection, the new timepiece is powered by the hand-wound Calibre 854A/2 and has a power reserve of 42 hours.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano Strap
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is limited to 190 watches. Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is limited to 190 pieces, priced at US$23,900 and available through boutiques only.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre: Reverso coffee table book by Assouline is priced at US$195 and will be available from the February 1st.

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Lifestyle

H Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Titanium Edition Limited to 20 Pieces

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The new limited edition H. Moser & Cie’s Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon in Titanium features an Electric Blue dial and costs CHF 330,000.
H M Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Titanium Watch
H Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon in Titanium with Electric Blue dial. Credit: H Moser & Cie

H.Moser & Cie’s latest watch is a refreshing update of their minimalistic Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon watch first released at Baselworld 2019, only this time, it’s gained a bright Electric Blue dial and a lightweight titanium case.

By completely removing all logo’s and markings from the Electric Blue sunburst dial, the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon follows in the footsteps of previous “Concept” designs and first draws focus to the spinning tourbillon located at 6 o’clock. Visible behind a skeletonized bridge, the flying tourbillon is fitted to a ball bearing that improves the accuracy and chronometry, making it appear as if it is floating effortlessly above the Electric Blue dial.

H M Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Titanium Watch Hands
“A feast for not only the eyes but the ears as well”. Credit: H Moser & Cie

Described by H. Moser & Cie as a “feast for not only the eyes, but the ears as well”, the aforementioned focus on the tourbillon of the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon is interrupted only by the chiming of the hours, quarter hours and minutes by the two hammers and gongs located on the dial side. This is a rather unusual placing (as they are more often located on the movement side) and one requiring a certain level of finesse to achieve so as not to interfere with the flying tourbillon.

The new titanium 33mm case ensures it is not only lightweight, but that the durable metal is not stressed by the regular ringing on the hours, quarter-hours and minutes created by the two gongs, continuing to produce a beautiful tone with each chime.

H M Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Titanium Watch Vertical
The striking and simplified “Concept” dial. Credit: H Moser & Cie

Powered by the hand-wound HMC 903 calibre with a power reserve of 90 hours, the watch is finished with a hand-stitched black alligator leather strap with red lining.

H. Moser & Cie’s Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon in Titanium with Electric Blue dial is priced at CHF 330,000 (approx. US$370,000) and limited to 20 pieces.

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Lifestyle

Jacob & Co Releases Four New Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon Watch Editions

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Jacob & Co have released four new editions of the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon watch featuring sapphire crystal, 18ct Rose Gold, 18ct White Gold, and baguette-cut diamonds.
Updated Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon New Collection
New Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon watch releases. Credit: Jacob & Co/Bugatti

Earlier this year, New York-based jeweler Jacob & Co collaborated with the French car manufacturer Bugatti to create a Chiron supercar inspired watch. Now to coincide with the holiday season, four new editions of the Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon watch designs have been created using entirely new materials.

Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon – Sapphire Crystal

The new sapphire crystal edition is created from a solid block of sapphire crystal and is secured on a blue or white rubber strap with a titanium buckle. The case back is also sapphire crystal, along with sapphire crystal crowns and pushers.

Sapphire crystal edition with white strap. Credit: Jacob & Co/Bugatti
Sapphire crystal edition with white strap. Credit: Jacob & Co/Bugatti
Sapphire crystal edition with blue strap. Credit: Jacob & Co/Bugatti
Sapphire crystal edition with blue strap. Credit: Jacob & Co/Bugatti
Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon – 18ct Rose Gold

Limited to 72 pieces, the new Rose Gold edition features an 18ct Rose Gold case on a black rubber strap. It also features a special anti-reflective sapphire crystal and an 18ct Rose Gold open case back with black DLC titanium crowns and pushers embossed with the Bugatti logo.

The 18ct Rose Gold edition. Credit: Jacob & Co/Bugatti
The 18ct Rose Gold edition. Credit: Jacob & Co/Bugatti
Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon – 18ct Rose Gold & White Baguette-Cut White Diamonds

Limited to 52 pieces, the 18ct Rose Gold & Baguette-Cut White Diamond edition is an option that features sparkling white diamonds and is secured on a rubber strap with an 18ct rose gold buckle clasp. The case back, crowns and pushers are also made of 18ct rose gold and set with baguette-cut white diamonds – embellished with an embossed Bugatti logo.

The 18ct Rose Gold with baguette-cut white diamonds edition. Credit: Jacob & Co/Bugatti
The 18ct Rose Gold with baguette-cut white diamonds edition. Credit: Jacob & Co/Bugatti
Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon – 18ct White Gold & White/Black Baguette-Cut Diamonds

The final version has been created using 18ct White Gold, and the case is set with 291 black and white diamonds (approximately 20 carats in total). The 18ct White Gold version also features another 18 white diamonds (approximately 1.76 carats) on the crowns, pushers, and white gold buckle clasp.

Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon with 18ct White Gold and White/Black Diamonds. Credit: Jacob & Co/Bugatti
Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon with 18ct White Gold and baguette-cut white/black diamonds. Credit: Jacob & Co/Bugatti

Carrying on with the same case shape and tiny animated replica of Bugatti’s iconic 8.0-liter W16 engine beating at the heart of the Tourbillon, the timepiece features a stunning movement in all versions of the watch, comprised of 578 components and is powered by a flying tourbillon movement, inclined at 30 degrees.

The miniature Bugatti “engine” comes to life once the right-hand crown of the timepiece is pushed. Just like the engine in the hyper sports car would come to life, the ‘crankshaft’ in the watch – one of the smallest and most complicated watch parts ever manufactured, made out of solid steel – turns and the ‘pistons’ pump up and down, mounted at varying angles to add to the complexity.

The movement is held in place in four places by miniature Chiron-style shock absorbers, appearing as though floating inside the case and can be observed moving slightly up and down. This suspension detail created an additional challenge for the watch designers, who had to develop and patent a unique automotive-inspired transverse system to ensure the movement in the case doesn’t damage the crown posts.

The crowns are found at the bottom of the case. The left crown sets the time, the middle crown winds the movement and animation for 60 hours of power reserve, while the push of the right-hand crown starts the animation. The power reserve for the animation and timekeeping are separate, yet both are wound through the winding crown – clockwise for the movement (60 hours), counterclockwise for the engine animation (approximately three activations). The power reserve for the movement even features the universal gas pump symbol on the side of the gauge.

Although no prices were announced as part of the release, if the previous release was anything to go by, it will be well above the $280,000 asking price of the previous non-diamond encrusted versions.

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